Sicily Itinerary (3, 4 & 5 Days): 2 Routes (Palermo vs Catania) + Where to Stay

There is a reason people come to Sicily once and spend the rest of their lives gushing about it. Volcanic islands, ancient Greek ruins, baroque towns, black sand beaches, and street food that will have you licking your fingers. This guide will walk you through the very best 3 to 5-day Sicily itinerary, whether you are landing in Palermo or touching down in Catania.

I have been coming to Sicily for years; my partner is Sicilian, which means the summer pilgrimage is basically written into the calendar at this point. Over time, that has translated into a lot of local knowledge: which beaches get overrun in August, which hilltop villages are worth the winding drive, and where to eat lunch without feeling like you wandered into a tourist trap. I figured it was time to share that knowledge with you in this Sicily itinerary.

Three to five days in Sicily means making hard choices. Pick the western side, and you get Palermo’s glorious, chaotic street food markets, a day in sleepy Cefalù, and a scooter ride along the coast to San Vito Lo Capo. Pick the eastern side, and you get Catania as your base. This side of the island means seeing Etna, exploring Taormina, and snapping a million pictures at the baroque towns of Ortigia and Noto. Let’s dive in!

Book Your Sicily Trip in 5 Minutes

---

Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.

---

Sicily in 3 Days or 5 Days — Choose Your Route

Sicily Itinerary at a Glance

	FROM PALERMO	FROM CATANIA
DAY ONE	PALERMO	CATANIA
DAY TWO	PALERMO/MONREALE	ETNA
DAY THREE	CEFALU	TAORMINA
DAY FOUR	MARSALA	ORTIGIA (or LIPARI)
DAY FIVE	FAVIGNANA	NOTO (or VULCANO)

Palermo or Catania — Which is better as a base?

• Choose Palermo for: city, markets, Arab-Norman sights, salt flats of Marsala
• Choose Catania for: Etna access, East-coast day trips (Taormina/Ortigia).

Flying into Palermo (West Sicily itinerary)

Western Sicily is a trip in itself, and if you are flying into Palermo, do yourself a favour and stay on this side of the island. In 3 to 5 days you can take on Palermo’s magnificent Arab-Norman architecture and legendary street food scene, make a half day trip to the medieval hilltop town of Monreale, head to the coast for a day at San Vito Lo Capo and the wild trails of the Zingaro nature reserve, and wind down the trip with pink salt flats, ancient windmills, and a Marsala wine tasting as the sun sets over the lagoon.

---

Sicily in Three Days (Palermo Base)

---

PLAN YOUR TRIP TO WESTERN SICILY

TO DO | One to Three Day Palermo Itinerary // Most Beautiful Churches in Palermo
WHERE TO STAY | Which Area to Stay in Sicily // Boutique Hotels in Palermo
TO EAT | Local Guide To Palermitan Streetfood
DAY TRIPS | 15 Day Trips from Palermo
UNMISSABLE PLACES TO VISIT | Most Beautiful Places in Sicily // Most Beautiful Villages in Sicily
PRACTICAL | Driving in Sicily, a Local Guide
LONGER ITINERARY | 7 Day Western Sicily Itinerary

DAY ONE: PALERMO

My partner is Palermitan, and as such, we visit the city multiple times a year. It has become a second home to me, and I could probably fill an entire book with my gushings about the city. There simply is no place like it: gently crumbling palazzos rub shoulders with neon-light aperitivi bar boasting Aperol Spritz at €5 a pop. It’s chaotic, loud, utterly overwhelming, and I love it.

WHERE TO STAY IN PALERMO

LUXURY PICK: Rocco Forte Villa Igiea. The only true luxury hotel in Palermo! Set in an old summer home of the influential Florio family, this hotel is a super important piece of Palermitan history. It’s absolutely splendid, although a little further out from the main monuments. Perfect if you have a car, ample parking is available.

MY RECOMMENDATIONS: I Mori di Porta Nuova Suite & Terrace. This little B&B is centrally located, yet in a part of the historical centre where there is no noise, it’s safe (police station is nearby), and they have an amazing view!

BUDGET PICK: La Terrazza sul Centro. Located smack in the heart of Palermo, you cannot get more central than this hotel. We stayed here a few years back and loved the service + breakfast on the terrace. Do bring earplugs, though, as it’s located in an old building in a noisy part of town.

HIGHLIGHTS OF PALERMO

If you are spending but a day in Palermo, I highly suggest you concentrate your time in and around the historical center. The good thing is most of the main attractions are within walking distance of each other.

PALATINE CHAPEL | The Palatine Chapel is set inside the Norman Palace, to this day the oldest working parliament still in existence, and it is one of those sights that never gets old no matter how many times you visit. With walls positively dripping gold (tiny golden mosaics that together create ornate depictions of biblical scenes). A combined ticket at €12 covers the Royal Apartments, the Royal Gardens and the Chapel. Book ahead to skip the queue.

CORSO VITTORIO EMANUALE & QUATTRO CANTI | One of the two main axes of Palermo’s old town, the Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the oldest street in the city and the best way to get your bearings. Running 1.5 kilometres from the Norman Palace all the way to the port, it passes the Cathedral, the theatrical Quattro Canti crossroads and a string of restored palazzos, all connected by a tangle of dark electricity wires zigzagging overhead. Early morning is my favourite time to walk it, when bleary-eyed locals are still hunting for their first coffee and the street feels entirely your own.

CHIESA DI SANTA CATERINA D’ALESSANDRIA | If you are spending 3 days in Sicily and only have time for one church in Palermo, make it this one. The 14th-century Chiesa di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria hides one of the most sumptuous Baroque interiors in the entire city/. Head up to the rooftop for the best views over Palermo’s sea of terracotta rooftops, then duck into the citrus-filled monastery garden where the nuns sell what is, according to locals, the best cannoli in the city.

LA MARTORANA & SAN CATALDO CHURCH | These two 12th-century Norman churches sit side by side on Piazza Pretoria and are two of my favorite places in Palermo. could not look more different from one another. Behind an austere façade, La Martorana houses an opulent interior combining golden Byzantine-style mosaics with Baroque. San Cataldo next door looks more like a mosque than a church with its three distinctive red domes, a striking reminder of the Arab influence that shaped this city for centuries.

EXPLORE THE HISTORIC MARKETS | Palermo has four historic markets — Ballarò, Capo, Vucciria, and Borgo Vecchio. Once the heart of the city, now, truthfully, a bit touristy but still worth visiting. In true Sicilian style, they are loud, busy, and very crowded, peppered with little restaurants, local bars, and street food stalls. A word of caution: the markets are a great spot for people-watching and tasting local specialities, but be very careful of pickpockets. Book a market tour to get the most out of your visit.

TRY THE PALERMITAN STREETFOOD | Understanding Palermo without delving into the street food scene is like eating French fries without mayo, simply impossible. From rice balls filled with ragù meat (the Arancina, €1.50) to bread stuffed with pork entrails and cheese (Pani câ Meusa, €3) to sweet fried dough filled with ricotta (Cannoli), the street food will capture you and add a few pounds to your waistline. Not for nothing did Forbes rank Palermo the number 5 street food city in the world. My partner wrote down his local recommendations in a detailed foodies guide to Palermo.

HAVE AN APERITIVO | No trip to Sicily is complete without copious amounts of aperitivi. For Palermo, I highly suggest you head to Seven Rooftopbar. Perched on the seventh floor of the Ambasciatori Hotel on Via Roma, with sweeping views over Palermo’s sea of terracotta rooftops and domes. Book a table in advance, though!

PRACTICAL TIPS FOR VISITING PALERMO

GETTING AROUND | The historic centre is best explored on foot. Most sights are within easy walking distance of each other. If the heat gets too much, flag down one of the white APE taxis at Quattro Canti for a 1.5-hour tour at around €60. Please do not take a horse-drawn carriage, as these animals are not treated well, and I have seen them collapse before.

PICKPOCKETS | The markets are known hotspots; keep your belongings close, wear a crossbody bag, and stick to daytime visits. The side streets can get a little sketchy after dark.

PARKING | Driving in Palermo is not for the faint-hearted. If you do have a car, look for blue-lined parking spaces or use a parking garage. Always ys pay the informal parking attendant €1, not more, and not less.

MARKETS | Go early. By 9 a.m., the markets are already heaving with tourists, and the best produce is long gone. Aim for between 6 and 9 am for the most authentic and local experience.

DAY TWO: PALERMO + MONREALE

No matter if you are spending 3 or 5 days in Sicily, Monreale has got to make it to the top of your places to explore.

HOW TO GET TO MONREALE FROM PALERMO

Monreale sits just 8 kilometres southwest of Palermo and is easily reached by public bus. Take the 389 bus from Piazza Indipendenza, right next to the Norman Palace, for around €1.50. The ride takes about 30 minutes and drops you 200 meters from the cathedral. It is a popular bus ride, so do not worry, you cannot miss the endpoint as almost everyone gets off here.

GUIDED TRIP FROM PALERMO | Short on time? Book a half-day tour from Palermo combining both Cefalù and Monreale.

MAIN ATTRACTIONS IN MONREALE

CATHEDRAL OF MONREALE | Do not let the fortress-like exterior fool you, step inside and you will find one of the most breathtaking interiors in all of Italy. Built in the 12th century by William II of Sicily, the walls are covered floor to ceiling in over 6,000 square metres of shimmering golden Byzantine mosaics, the largest in Italy and second only to the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. Entry costs around €5 and it is worth every cent.

CATHEDRAL TERRACES | For the best views over the Conca d’Oro valley and the rooftops of Monreale, head up to the cathedral terraces. The cool thing about this climb is that it takes you to the first floor of the cathedral. In essence, you traverse the first floor to get to the terraces. Little windows on that first floor allow you to look at the central nave of the church and the tiles. I do not recommend this climb for those who suffer from vertigo or claustrophobia. Entry is around €3 and can be combined with the cathedral ticket.

EXPLORE THE CLOISTER | Right next door to the cathedral sits one of Sicily’s best-kept secrets. The 12th-century Cloister is a serene courtyard of 108 intricately decorated marble columns, each one uniquely carved with mosaics and arabesque details that perfectly encapsulate Palermo’s Arab-Norman heritage. I really love the inner courtyard and will always make time to visit when I am in the neighborhood. I have a sneaking suspicion it’s left off many a Sicily itinerary because it’s always pretty tranquil!

DAY THREE: DAY TRIP FROM PALERMO

If you have three days in Sicily, you have two options. Option one is you take it super slow and decide to just stick to Palermo. In which case, browse through my extensive guide on Palermo (which has a one, two, and three-day itinerary for the city). The second option is to take a day trip from the capital to see a bit more of the island. Here are a few of my recommendations.

DAY TRIPS FROM PALERMO WITHOUT A CAR

CEFALU | 40-60 min by train from Palermo Centrale (€6.20 single). One of my favourite spots in all of Sicily — a compact medieval town wedged between a dramatic rock and the sea, with a UNESCO Arab-Norman cathedral that rivals anything in Palermo. The beaches are sandy and the evening passeggiata along the seafront is not to be missed. Go early; the village gets very crowded in summer. Alternatively, book a half-day tour from Palermo.

MONDELLO | 20-50 min by bus from Palermo (bus 806, 544 or 603, €1.80 single). Mondello is Palermo’s backyard beach, and the easiest half-day escape from the city. Unlike most Sicilian beaches, it is sandy rather than pebbly, the water is clear, and the lidos are well organised (but expensive). This is a popular hangout for local Palermitans, so if you are visiting in summer, it can get very busy! Grab an aperitivo at Alle Terazze and/or try the legendary Arancina Bomba at Touring Cafè.

DAY TRIPS FROM PALERMO WITH A CAR

Personally, I would not recommend renting a car if you are spending only 3 days in Sicily. Driving on the island is stressful (“Red light means you have to stop?”), and finding a spot to park the car in the city is mission impossible. So I would honestly invest in a tour instead. Below are a few of my favorite spots; I have added both the driving time and a tour link so you can choose what feels right.

ERICE | 1h37 by car from Palermo. If you are looking to escape the crowds and the heat, head up to Erice. This medieval hilltop town sits 750 metres above sea level and is regularly shrouded in fog, giving it an almost otherworldly atmosphere. Combine it with the Marsala salt flats on the way back and you have one of the best day trips in western Sicily. You could book a tour that combines Erice, Segesta and the Salt Pans.

MARSALA SALT FLATS | 1h40 by car from Palermo. I have seen a lot of sunsets in Sicily but the one over the pink salt flats of Marsala, with ancient windmills silhouetted against the sky and the occasional flamingo wading through the shallows, is something else entirely. Stay for a wine tasting of the famous Marsala wine before heading back.

SCOPELLO| 1h10 by car from Palermo. A tiny hamlet of just 100 inhabitants perched above one of the clearest bays in Sicily, with a photogenic 14th-century tonnara (tuna fishery) that looks like it was designed purely to be photographed. Pack a picnic and plan to spend the entire morning in the water — you will not want to leave.

AGRIGENTO AND VALLEY OF TEMPLES | 1h50 by car from Palermo. The largest clustering of Greek temples outside of Greece, and honestly, one of the most humbling sights I have ever visited. Go at sunrise if you can — the temples bathed in golden morning light with no crowds in sight is something I still think about. A guided tour is worth every cent here.

---

Sicily in Five Days (Palermo Base)

---

If you are planning on spending five days in Sicily, I would recommend renting a car to whizz around the island! Palermo is the perfect launchpad to explore Western Sicily, which is a more rugged and wild side of Sicily. Base yourself out of Palermo for the first three days, before booking a night in San Vito Lo Capo and another in Marsala.

DAY FOUR: ZINGARO & SAN VITO LO CAPO

Combining San Vito Lo Capo and the Riserva dello Zingaro in a single day is one of the best things you can do with 5 days in Sicily. Two of the most beautiful spots on the island are conveniently located just five minutes apart by car. The drive from Palermo takes around 1h10, hugging the northwestern coastline past the picturesque fishing port of Castellammare del Golfo. The latter has a medieval castle, overlooking a quaint bay, and is worth a pitstop (time permitting).

WHERE TO STAY IN ZINGARO OR SAN VITO LO CAPO

LUXURY PICK: Tonnara di Scopollo. This hotel has become THE place to stay in recent years (thank you, social media). Prices are very much at the top end, while amenities do not seemingly reflect that high price point. Personally, I would not stay here as I find it a bit too much fuss about nothing.

MY RECOMMENDATION: Baglio La Luna – B&B. This is a little B&B that has the most beautiful views over the cape. Has a swimming pool, a lush garden, and an ample sun terrace for guests to chill out. It also has free parking on site!

BEST VIEWS: Artemide Hotel. A smart, well-located three-star hotel a short walk from San Vito Lo Capo’s famous beach, with modern rooms, a rooftop terrace, and a jacuzzi that make it easy to unwind after a day at the Zingaro reserve. Breakfast is included, and the staff consistently get rave reviews for going out of their way to help guests find the best local spots.

HIGHLIGHTS OF RISERVA DELLO ZINGARO & SAN VITO LO CAPO

ZINGARO NATIONAL PARK | Sicily’s very first nature reserve and one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline in the entire Mediterranean. A 7km coastal trail connects six stunning coves with crystal clear water, passing through untouched Mediterranean scrubland with no roads, no bars, and no buildings in sight. The first beach is just a 15-minute walk from the southern entrance near Scopello. Entry is €5 per person, cash only, and bring everything you need as there are absolutely no facilities once you are inside.

TONNARA DI SCOPELLO | You have almost certainly seen it on Instagram: the faded pink facade, the dramatic limestone sea stacks, and the crystal clear cove framed by ancient stone buildings. The Tonnara di Scopello is a medieval tuna fishing complex that has absolutely boomed post pandemic. When I first visited, it was free to spend a day at the beach here, while the price now ranges between €10 and €25 (depending on the season). Entry includes a deckchair rental and access to the small museum — book your tickets online in advance as it fills up fast in summer.

SAN VITO LO CAPO | This is a small seaside town with one of the most beautiful Blue Flag beaches in all of Italy, lapped by water so turquoise it looks more Caribbean than Mediterranean. For a quieter alternative to the busy main beach, head 15 minutes up the road to the Baia di Santa Margherita near Macari ( a wide sandy bay with spectacular views of Monte Cofano and far fewer umbrellas). When hunger strikes, order couscous in town. San Vito is the undisputed couscous capital of Sicily, a delicious legacy of the island’s North African heritage, and every restaurant on the waterfront does a version worth trying (mostly fish-based, so harder for vegetarians).

---

PRACTICAL TIPS FOR VISITING RISERVA DELLO ZINGARO AND SCOPELLO

WHAT TO BRING | When visiting the national park, you will want to bring sturdy shoes for walking as well as water shoes for when you head in the water. Additionally, bring a towel, snacks, and plenty of water to both Scopello Beach and the park.

ENTRANCE FEES | Entrance to the Zingaro National Park is €5

WHEN TO GO | Go early; the Zingaro reserve has no shade and no facilities once you are inside, and in summer, the heat is unforgiving by midday.

PARKING | A small parking lot is present at the Zingaro Reserve on both sides of the entrance.

DAY FIVE: MARSALA OR ISLAND HOPPING

If you are spending 5 days in Sicily, you have two options for your last day. Option one is to explore the salt pans of Marsala, a stretch along the coast between Marsala and Trapani. Base yourself out of Marsala, try the eponymous wine in one of the local cantinas and take a tour of the salt flats.

Or alternatively, skip Marsala and head to Trapani, hop on a ferry, and explore the magical Egadi islands. The single most beautiful place in Sicily, for me, is the islet of Favignana. Rent a bicycle, and cycle from cove to cove while dipping into the bluest water you have ever seen. Oh, and whatever you do, no skipping espresso with a dollop of pistachio cream (a local speciality!).

WHERE TO STAY IN MARSALA

MY RECOMMENDATION: Agriturismo Baglio Donnafrance Wine Resort. We did a winetasting here a few years back, and the place is nothing short of spectacular. The wine was paired with delicious food, and the staff was so nice! I would definitely come back to stay here for a few days.

LUXURY PICK: Dome Hotel. A boutique four-star in the heart of Marsala’s historic centre, with just 15 rooms, a beautiful mix of Sicilian heritage with Andalusian and Moorish architectural touches, and a rooftop pool with views over the city’s famous church domes.

BUDGET PICK: Villa Salinara. A beautifully restored 18th century Sicilian baglio (a traditional rural farmhouse built around a central courtyard) set among vineyards and olive groves just 500 metres from the sea, with garden terraces, sea views, and an organic vegetable garden that feeds the breakfast table.

HIGHLIGHTS OF MARSALA

MARSALA WINE TASTING | Marsala without Marsala wine would be like Palermo without arancina . The good news is you are spoiled for choice. Cantine Florio, founded in 1833 and the oldest Marsala producer, offers an impressive guided cellar tour with a tasting of five wines starting from €12. Donnafugata, a short walk away, is a beautiful family-owned winery, with tastings starting from €24. For something more intimate, Cantine Pellegrino, run by its seventh-generation family, is a favourite with locals (including my father-in-law). All three require advance booking, so plan ahead before your visit.

VISIT THE SALT FLATS | Sicily in 5 days means you have time for at least one spectacular sunset. The single most beautiful sunset of my life was right here, on the salt flats of Marsala. Think shallow pink lagoons, ancient windmills, and white pyramids of salt that have remained virtually unchanged since the Phoenicians first harvested here in the 7th century BC. Entry to the Saline Ettore e Infersa includes a guided visit to the working windmill museum and a salt tasting, and costs around €5 per person.

KITESURFING | Alternatively, if you want a little more action on your trip to Sicily, you can book a session of Kitesurfing in Lo Stagnone, just north of Marsala. It has become one of the top kitesurfing destinations in Europe. With wind blowing around 300 days a year, flat warm water rarely exceeding 1.5 metres in depth, and a string of well-established kite schools right on the beach, it is as perfect for complete beginners as it is for experienced riders. Lessons start from around €43 per hour. Flow Kite School and Kite Lab are among the highest-rated schools on site.

---

EXPLORE THE EGADI ISLANDS

FAVIGNANA | If your Sicily itinerary stretches to five days, a half-day trip to Favignana is a wonderful way to round it off. The butterfly-shaped island of the Egadi archipelago is just 30 minutes by ferry from Marsala (tickets from €11), with stunning beaches including the famous Cala Rossa and Cala Azzurra waiting on the other side. Rent a bicycle at the port and pedal your way around the island.

LEVANZO | Levanzo is the smallest of the three Egadi Islands, with just 200 or so permanent residents and a single whitewashed village clustered around a postcard-perfect turquoise harbour. Never have I seen water as blue as in and around Levanzo. There are no cars, no roads, and barely any restaurants. Make sure to check out the Grotta del Genovese, a sea cave containing extraordinary wall paintings dating back over 10,000 years. The hydrofoil from Trapani takes just 25 minutes.

MARETTIMO | For a Sicily, 5-day itinerary, Marettimo is the kind of addition that turns a good trip into an unforgettable one. I have not been here yet, but I am absolutely itching to go. The most remote of the three Egadi Islands, it is a place of wild rocky coastlines, crystal clear sea caves, and hiking trails. The ferry from Trapani takes around 1h15 with tickets starting from €19. No cars are allowed on the island, so you explore entirely on foot.

GETTING THERE | From July to September, ferries connect the Egadi islands to Trapani on a regular basis. Check your schedule and buy your tickets on Ferryscanner. Tickets must be purchased in advance.

Flying into Catania (East Sicily itinerary)

If your Sicily itinerary (3 days) starts from Catania, I strongly recommend planning an East Sicily itinerary where you focus on Catania, Mount Etna, and Taormina. With an extra 2 days, you can tack on the baroque villages of Noto and Ortigia, or skip the architecture in favor of the crystalline waters of the Aeolian Islands

---

3 Day Sicily Itinerary (Catania Base)

---

PLAN YOUR TRIP TO EASTERN SICILY

DAY TRIPS | 10 Day Trips from Taormina // 15 Day Trips from Catania
WHERE TO STAY | Which area to stay in Sicily // Boutique Hotels in Taormina
UNMISSABLE PLACES TO VISIT | Most Beautiful Places in Sicily // Most Beautiful Villages in Sicily
PRACTICAL | Driving in Sicily, a Local Guide

DAY ONE: CATANIA

Catania is a city in Sicily that I am a lot less familiar with than Palermo. Having a partner who hails from the latter means that we usually spend our time exploring western Sicily, using the family home in Palermo as a jumpingboard. That being said, we spent 3 months teleworking (both of us were working for companies based out of Belgium at the time) on the eastern side of the island. And I can confirm it is equally magnificent, albeit more for architecture than nature.

WHERE TO STAY IN CATANIA

LUXURY: Palace Catania UNA Esperienze. A grand hotel right on Via Etnea with one of the best rooftop terraces in the city, where the views of Mount Etna are genuinely spectacular. Breakfast gets consistently rave reviews, the interiors are elegant without being stuffy, and the location puts you within walking distance of everything worth seeing in Catania.

MY RECOMMENDATION: Bastio Private Suites. Just steps from Piazza del Duomo, this intimate boutique property occupies a 16th century fortification built by Emperor Charles V, where centuries-old lava stone walls meet contemporary luxury suites complete with hammams, whirlpool baths, and private terraces. The rooftop terrace looks directly onto Catania Cathedral’s majestic dome, and the Sicilian breakfast is consistently one of the highlights guests mention in reviews.

BUDGET. Hotel Biscari. A lovely baroque-style hotel in the city centre with a rooftop terrace for breakfast, clean and spacious soundproofed rooms, and staff who go out of their way to help arrange tours and day trips. For under €100 a night it is exceptional value, and it sits just five minutes on foot from Via Etnea.

HIGHLIGHTS OF CATANIA

SEE THE TOWN SYMBOL | The beating heart of Catania and the perfect place to start is perhaps not what you might expect. The square is dominated by the Fontana dell’Elefante. As the name might reveal, it is a lava stone elephant balancing an Egyptian obelisk on its back. It has been the symbol of the city for centuries! The Cathedral of Sant’Agata flanks one side.

DUOMO DI CATANIA (CATTEDRALE DI SANT’AGATA) | The Duomo has been destroyed and rebuilt multiple times following earthquakes and Etna eruptions, yet its magnificent Baroque facade remains one of the finest on the island. Inside you will find the tomb of Vincenzo Bellini and the sacred relics of Sant’Agata, Catania’s fiercely beloved patron saint. Entry is free.

CLAMBER UP BADIA DI SANT’AGATA | Right next door to the Duomo sits this elegant 18th-century Baroque church, and the real reason to come here is the rooftop. Climb to the top for a breathtaking 360° panorama over Catania’s sea of Baroque rooftops, with Mount Etna looming dramatically in the background. Tickets are just €5 and it takes no more than 30 minutes to visit.

VIA ETNEA & VILLA BELLINI | The main thoroughfare of Catania stretches from Piazza del Duomo all the way up to the beautiful Villa Bellini gardens. On a clear day, the views straight up Via Etnea towards the smoking peak of Etna are well worth taking 1000 snaps (I did). Entry to the gardens is completely free. Make sure to climb the twin hills inside for sweeping views of Mount Etna and Catania’s rooftops.

LA PESSCHERIA FISH MARKET | Just behind the Piazza del Duomo lies a typical Sicilian market. Vendors hollering over mountains of fresh swordfish, sea urchins, and blood red tuna is a little visceral. At least for this vegetarian. Go between 7 and 10 am before the best produce disappears.

CASTELLO URSINO | Built in the 13th century by Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II, this gargantuan lava stone castle once stood on a coastal promontory before Etna’s 1669 eruption extended the coastline and left it stranded in the middle of the city. It now houses a civic museum with an impressive collection of archaeological finds, paintings, and artifacts spanning every era of Sicilian history. Entry is €6 and includes the museum.

MONASTERO DEI BENEDETTINI DI SAN NICOLÒ L’ARENA| The second largest Benedictine monastery in Europe and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Founded in 1558, rebuilt after an Etna eruption and a catastrophic earthquake, it now houses the University of Catania’s Department of Humanities. You can wander freely around the gardens outside at no charge, but the real magic is inside on a guided tour. Guided tours cost €10 standard and run daily from 10 am to 5 pm, with English language tours at 1 pm and 4:30 pm.

PRACTICAL TIPS FOR VISITING CATANIA

GETTING AROUND | The historic centre is compact and best explored entirely on foot — most sights are within 15 minutes of each other. Avoid the city buses unless absolutely necessary as they are notoriously slow, overcrowded and have no air conditioning in summer.

PICKPOCKETS | Akin to Palermo, the bustling markets of Catania tend to attract a lot of pickpockets. Be mindful of your personal items in places with a high concentration of tourists.

DAY TWO: MOUNT ETNA DAY

No matter if you are exploring Sicily in 3, 4, or 5 days, if you have landed in Catania, clambering up Mount Etna is non-negotiable. My partner has regaled me with many a story of how he and his friends tried going up, with no map or preparation. Let’s just say, it was not the hike they were expecting, i.e., they got lost and did not see the crater. You have been forewarned; a little bit of preparation is essential.

BOOK A TOUR TO MOUNT ETNA

PRACTICAL DETAILS FOR CLIMBING MOUNT ETNA

A visit to Sicily is not complete without traipsing up the slopes of Mount Etna, the highest active volcano in Europe and without doubt one of the most extraordinary natural attractions in Italy Etna looms over the eastern coast of Sicily like a brooding giant, its summit regularly cloaked in smoke, and getting up close to it is one of those experiences that puts the rest of your trip firmly in perspective.

The starting point for any visit is Rifugio Sapienza, a mountain refuge at 1900 metres on the southern slope. Type it directly into your GPS and you will find ample free parking on site. From here the options range from a gentle self-guided walk around the Silvestri craters, just ten minutes on foot and completely free, to a full ascent by cable car and 4×4 to the crater area at 2900 metres. The cable car alone costs €50 per adult and takes around 12 minutes to reach 2500 metres. From there, a 4×4 combined with a mandatory guided tour to 2900 metres costs €78 per adult in total, pricey but the views across Sicily and the smoking craters up close are genuinely unforgettable.

PRACTICAL INFO | Pack a warm jacket regardless of the season. Even in July, temperatures at 2500 metres can drop sharply and the wind chill at 2900 metres is no joke. Sturdy closed shoes are essential as lava rocks are as sharp as razors and sandals are simply not an option up here.

---

DAY THREE: TAORMINA

Taormina is quite possibly the prettiest village in all of Sicily, a cliffside medieval town perched 200 metres above the Ionian Sea, with a horseshoe-shaped ancient Greek theatre offering staggering views of Mount Etna as a backdrop. If you have been watching White Lotus, you might recognise the backdrop.

A word of warning, though: Taormina is the most visited place in Sicily, and it gets very busy with day trippers, especially in high season. It seems everyone and their cat has Taormina on their Sicily vacation itinerary. In full transparency, despite Taormina being magical, I would not recommend coming in July and August. I would skip it and head to Ortigia or Noto instead.

WHERE TO STAY IN TAORMINA

LUXURY: San Domenico Palace (Four Seasons). A former Dominican monastery perched in the heart of Taormina, this is the hotel that White Lotus put on the map, and it lives up to every bit of the hype. The views over the Ionian Sea are extraordinary, the service is Four Seasons through and through.

MY RECOMMENDATION: Taodomus Boutique Hotel. A beautifully designed boutique property tucked just a short walk from Corso Umberto, with a rooftop terrace that delivers some of the best views over Taormina, Mount Etna, and the coastline simultaneously. Guests consistently rave about the breakfast and the personal, attentive service.

BEST FOR VIEWS & BEACH: UNAHOTELS Capotaormina. Carved into the cliffs above the Ionian Sea just 1.5km below Taormina’s historic centre, this four-star has one of the most jaw-dropping settings of any hotel on the island. A private beach accessed by a lift cut into the rock, a saltwater infinity pool on the cliff edge, and breakfast views of Mount Etna that guests consistently describe as unforgettable.

MUST VISIT PLACES IN TAORMINA

TEATRO ANTICO DI TAORMINA | The reason most people come to Taormina, and I can safely say it is well worth it! This 3rd century BC Greek theatre, rebuilt by the Romans, is the second largest in Sicily, and what sets it apart from every other ancient monument in Italy is the backdrop. Mount Etna smoking on the horizon and the Ionian Sea glittering below. Go early morning before the tour groups arrive. Tickets cost €10 and include access to the archaeological area. Book skip-the-line tickets.

CORSO UMBERTO & PIAZZA IX APRILE | The pedestrianised main street of Taormina is lined with ceramic shops, granita bars and boutiques, and leads to the magnificent Piazza IX Aprile. The views from the piazza over the Ionian Sea and Mount Etna are something else!

ISOLA BELLA | The most iconic beach in Taormina and one of the most photographed spots in all of Sicily, a tiny protected island connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of sand that disappears at high tide. Reach it by cable car from town (€10 return, 5 minutes) or on foot via the staircase on Via Pirandello. Go very early or expect it to be crowded. A ticket to explore the island itself costs €6.

BAIA DI MAZZARO & SPISONE | If Isola Bella is too busy, head a few minutes along the coast to the calmer bays of Mazzarò and Spisone. Both are accessible by cable car or on foot, with private beach clubs and free sections of beach. Spisone in particular is longer, slightly less crowded, and great for families with easy sea access.

LOCAL TIP | If Taormina’s beaches feel too crowded or too expensive, head down the hill to Giardini Naxos, a lively seaside town just 5 minutes by car or bus with the longest sandy beach in the area, warm shallow water, and far more affordable lidos.

---

---

5 Days in Sicily (Catania Base)

---

Now, your Sicily 5-day itinerary can veer off into two different possibilities. Option A is to spend day four and five exploring the Baroque villages of Sicily: Ortigia and Noto. Both are absolutely magnificent and well worth a visit. The alternative is that you opt for a taste of true island life and take a ferry to the Aeolian Islands: Lipari, Vulcano, Panarea, Stromboli, Alicudi, Filicudi, and Salina.

If it is your first time in Sicily, I recommend you stick to Ortigia and Noto. Not because the islands are less spectacular, but because you want to get a feel for the largest Sicilian island first. The Aeolian Islands are great if you are looking to dial the pace of your travels way (waaaay) down. They are pure rest and relaxation.

DAY FOUR: ORTIGIA

Ortigia is one of those places that belongs on every eastern Sicily itinerary. This tiny island, connected to the mainland by just two bridges and walkable end to end in twenty minutes, has more baroque palaces wedged into a tiny space than any other place in Italy. We spent a couple of weeks here when we were digital nomads, and it was wonderful. We went end of winter, beginning of spring to avoid the heaving crowds.

WHERE TO STAY IN ORTIGIA

LUXURY: Palazzo Artemide. A beautifully restored palazzo right in the heart of Ortigia’s historic centre, with frescoed ceilings, marble floors, a rooftop terrace with sea views, and a spa that makes it very easy to do absolutely nothing for a day. Breakfast draws on locally sourced Sicilian produce and guests consistently rate it as one of the highlights of their stay.

MY RECOMMENDATION: Algilà Ortigia Charme Hotel. A gorgeous four-star set in a historic building just steps from the sea, with stone walls, beamed ceilings, a courtyard fountain, and some rooms with private roof terraces and hot tubs. The Sicilian breakfast is excellent!

BUDGET: Hotel Gutkowski. A charming, understated hotel spread across two restored fishermen’s buildings right on the Ortigia seafront, with individually decorated rooms that mix traditional Sicilian character with a clean contemporary touch.

HIGHLIGHTS OF ORTIGIA

DUOMO DI SIRACUSA | Built in the 7th century directly on top of a 5th-century BC Greek temple to Athena, this is one of the most extraordinary buildings in all of Sicily. Look closely at the external walls, and you will see the original Doric columns of the Greek temple incorporated directly into the stone, a 2700-year-old architectural palimpsest hiding in plain sight. I highly recommend you also go inside! Personally, I prefer the piazza around sunset for the best light.

THE ORTIGIA MARKET | Every morning except Sunday, the streets around the Temple of Apollo are buzzing with local vendors. In true Sicilian style, it’s chaotic and loud. So be prepared. Expect to find fresh fruit, veg, almonds, fresh seafood, and local cheeses. You will also want to try the viral sandwich from Caseificio Borderi, widely considered the best in the city. A 5-day Sicily itinerary that skips the Ortigia market is akin to blasphemy in my book!

SPIAGGIA CALA ROSSA & THE SEAFRONT | Ortigia is surrounded by water on all sides, and swimming off its rocky ledges is one of the great pleasures of a visit. Cala Rossa is the main beach on the island, a small pebbly cove with clear water on the southern tip. My partner would come here every morning to sit and drink his morning coffee.

GALLERIA REGIONALE DI PALAZZO BELLOMO | One of the most beautiful Baroque palaces in Ortigia and also one of the most under-visited museums in eastern Sicily. The 18th-century palace houses a remarkable collection spanning medieval sculptures, Renaissance paintings, and decorative arts. For me, the building itself, with its arched courtyard and carved stone staircase, is worth the €8 entrance fee alone.

---

PRACTICAL TIPS FOR VISITING ORTIGIA

PARKING | Ortigia operates a ZTL (Limited Traffic Zone) which restricts vehicle access on weekends and public holidays, so do not even attempt to drive onto the island on a Saturday or Sunday. Your best bet is Parcheggio Molo Sant’Antonio on Via Rodi, a large pay-and-display car park just a five-minute walk from the island at €1.50 per hour. Download the EasyPark app before you arrive, as the ticket machines are notoriously unreliable and occasionally out of service entirely.

GETTING AROUND | Once you have parked, put the car keys away and explore entirely on foot. Ortigia is walkable end to end in twenty minutes, and its narrow alleyways are simply not designed for cars.

GREEK TRAGEDIES AT THE TEATRO GRECO | Every year from mid-May to late June, the INDA Foundation stages a celebrated cycle of ancient Greek tragedies at the Teatro Greco di Siracusa, one of the largest and best preserved ancient theatres in the world. Performances take place at sunset without sound systems, relying entirely on the theatre’s extraordinary acoustics. I have not made it out there yet for this event, but my partner keeps telling me we have to go!

DAY FIVE: VAL DI NOTO

I am a real architecture buff; in fact, my camera roll is pretty much cats and architecture. If, like me, you cannot resist the charm of a baroque palace, your 5 days in Sicily need to include a pitstop in Noto. Struck by a catastrophic earthquake in the 17th century (this particular one flattened the entire southeastern corner of Sicily), the newly rebuilt town was designed as a showcase of Baroque architecture and urban planning. Dare I say it was a roaring success?

WHERE TO STAY IN NOTO

LUXURY: Q92 Noto Hotel. An impeccably restored 18th century noble palazzo right on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, with just nine rooms, frescoed ceilings, bespoke furnishings, and a walled lemon garden with an honesty bar stocked with regional wines. Breakfast is served on a terrace looking directly out over Noto Cathedral, and the service is the kind that makes you feel like the only guests in the building.

MY RECOMMENDATION: Gagliardi Boutique Hotel. A beautifully restored palazzo tucked just behind Palazzo Ducezio in the heart of Noto’s baroque centre, with a rooftop terrace that delivers some of the most stunning views over the Cathedral and the city skyline. Breakfast is served in a fragrant inner courtyard, and the staff consistently earn glowing reviews for their warmth and local knowledge.

AGRITURISMO: Baglio Genovesi/ A traditional Sicilian baglio about five minutes from Noto’s historic centre, with an infinity pool that sweeps out over the baroque rooftops and a warm, family-run atmosphere that is genuinely hard to leave. You will need a car to get around, but the setting, the space, and the views more than make up for it.

HIGHLIGHTS OF NOTO

NOTO CATHEDRAL | The undisputed star of the show, sitting at the top of a monumental staircase on Piazza Municipio and gleaming in golden limestone that turns almost luminous at sunset. Badly damaged by an earthquake in 1996, the Cathedral was painstakingly rebuilt over ten years using the original 18th century materials and techniques. Entry is free, and the piazza in front is the perfect spot to linger over a granita from Caffè Sicilia across the street, voted the best bar in Italy. Also closed when we went, so you if you go please do tell me in the comments how it was!

PALAZZO DUCEZIO | Directly opposite the Cathedral stands this elegant 18th century palace, now Noto’s Town Hall, inspired by the grand palaces of 17th century France. For just €3, you can access the upper level and enjoy a panoramic view at eye level with the Cathedral facade. Try to go during golden hour, thank me later! The combination ticket also includes the Sala degli Specchi and the nearby Teatro Tina di Lorenzo and is well worth the few extra euros.

PALAZZO NICOLACI DI VILLADORATA | Walk down Via Corrado Nicolaci and look up, the elaborately carved balconies of this 18th century Baroque palace, supported by brackets shaped like horses, lions, griffins, and cherubs, are among the most extraordinary in Sicily. The palace has 90 rooms with frescoed ceilings and was home to the princes of Villadorata for centuries. Every third Sunday of May, the entire street is carpeted in flower petal mosaics for the famous Infiorata festival.

CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE | A wide pedestrianised boulevard running from the triumphal Porta Reale arch all the way through the historic centre, flanked by churches, palaces, and cafés. The whole street was deliberately oriented east to west so that it is bathed in sunlight from morning to evening. It’s jam-packed with those beautiful baroque buildings Noto is known for, so make sure to keep your camera handy!

BAROQUE TOUR | If you are a fan of Baroque, book yourself a private guided tour to explore the many, many Baroque palaces that are dotted around Noto. Perfect for both history and architecture buffs.

ALTERNATIVE 5 DAY ITINERARY SICILY

For those looking to get a real taste of what Dolce Far Niente entails, I would recommend swapping out Ortigia and Noto for two days in the Aeolian Islands. This archipelago is located off the northeastern coast of Sicily and is the favorite vacation spot of many Sicilians. Getting there requires taking a ferry from Milazzo (check ferry schedules and book online via Ferryscanner)

DAY FOUR: LIPARI

READ MORE | Full guide to things to do in Lipari

The largest of the seven islands, it is the natural base for island hopping to Vulcano, Salina, Panarea, and Stromboli. Spend your mornings with a granita and brioche at Bar d’Ambra in Lipari Town, watching fishermen haul in the day’s catch as little boats clink against the quay at Marina Corta. In the afternoon, head up to Belvedere Quattrocchi for an aperitivo.

DAY FIVE: VULCANO

READ MORE | 10 Things to do in Vulcano

Vulcano is the most geologically dramatic of the Aeolian Islands, and easily one of the most memorable stops on any Sicily itinerary. I love it, but I do have to warn you it has a pretty strong smell of sulphur. Spend a morning at Spiaggia delle Sabbie Nere, then hop on a scooter and wind your way south to Spiaggia di Gelso, a Blue Flag beach on the southern tip (no sulphur smell here). Round the day off with an aperitivo at the Baia Negra Beach Club.

COMBINE LIPARI & VULCANO: Short on time? Book a tour from Milazzo combining Lipari and Vulcano in a one-day tour.

Not Covered Sicily Itineraries

VALLEY OF TEMPLES: The valley of temples is an absolute highlight of Sicily, but it’s a 1h50 drive from Palermo and a 1h30 drive from Catania. Personally, I find it too far away to squeeze into a 3-day Sicily itinerary. If you are spending 5 days on the island, you could see it, but it would require sacrificing other spots proposed above.

TURKISH STEPS: Scala dei Turchi is a location that has garnered “Instagram fame” over the years. It is a white cliff made of pure marlstone that swoops down into the sea. Magnificent to see, but a whopping 2h30 from Palermo and almost 3 hours by car from Catania. It is only 20 minutes from the Valley of Temples, so if you do decide to go, combine both over 2 days.

MARZAMEMI: This little colorful fishing village in southeastern Sicily was built around an ancient tuna fishery. Marzamemi has positively exploded with tourists over the last 4 years. It is super quaint in May and June, but best to avoid in July and August. It is 25 minutes from Noto and 45 min drive from Ortigia. So it can be tacked on to your 5-day Sicily itinerary if you feel like squeezing it in.

PANTELLERIA: This windswept island is one of the wildest Sicilian islands. It is located between Sicily and Tunisia and arguable one of the most authentic little corners of Sicily. As it is pretty far off, many a tourist will not make it here. I recently spent a week here diving in crystalline waters, bathing in hot springs, and watching out-of-this-world sunsets.

Best Time to Visit Sicily

SPRING (MARCH TO MAY): Temperatures sit between 14°C and 22°C (57°F to 72°F), the countryside is lush and green, and the almond trees around Agrigento bloom spectacularly in late February and early March. Crowds are manageable, prices are lower, and the light is beautiful. The Infiorata festival in Noto takes place on the third Sunday of May, when Via Corrado Nicolaci is carpeted entirely in flower petal mosaics.

SUMMER (JUNE TO AUGUST): This is peak season, with temperatures regularly hitting 30°C to 40°C (86°F to 104°F) inland and on the volcanic islands. The beaches will be absolutely packed. July and August in particular can be brutally hot for sightseeing. You will want to go early in the morning.

AUTUMN (SEPTEMBER TO NOVEMBER): My personal favourite time to visit. The heat softens to a very comfortable 20°C to 28°C (68°F to 82°F) in September and October, the sea is still warm enough to swim in, and the summer crowds thin out noticeably. October also brings the Cous Cous Fest in San Vito Lo Capo, a week-long celebration of Sicily’s North African culinary heritage.

WINTER (DECEMBER TO FEBRUARY): Cool and quiet, with temperatures ranging from 8°C to 15°C (46°F to 59°F). Most beach resorts and Aeolian island services shut down entirely, but the cities (Palermo, Catania, Syracuse) are a genuine pleasure to explore without the summer crush. We visit Palermo every year around Christmas and in recent years the city has started adding little Christmas Markets around the city.

How to Get Around Sicily

CAR: For most of Sicily, a rental car is the only realistic way to get around. Public transport outside the main cities is infrequent, unreliable, and simply not built for tourists. Many of the best beaches, hilltop villages, and archaeological sites are completely inaccessible without your own wheels. Book in advance, brace yourself for Sicilian driving culture, and note that many historic centres operate ZTL zones where driving is restricted. Compare prices via DiscoverCar.

BUS: In Palermo, buses are a workable option for getting around the city, not always punctual, sometimes with air conditioning (other times not), but they do the job for short hops between neighbourhoods. Inter-city buses (run by companies like Flixbus and Autolinee Federico) connect the main towns and are often cheaper than trains.

TRAIN: Trains in Sicily are generally slow and infrequent, and most routes are not worth planning a trip around. The one exception worth knowing about is the coastline that hugs the northern shore of the island between Palermo and Messina. It is one of the more scenic train journeys in southern Italy, winding along clifftops above the Tyrrhenian Sea with the Aeolian Islands occasionally visible on the horizon. I am super happy they opened this line a few years ago!

FERRY AND HYDROFOIL: Essential if you are planning to visit the Aeolian or Egadi Islands. Liberty Lines and Siremar run regular hydrofoil services from Milazzo (for the Aeolians) and Trapani (for the Egadis), with frequency ramping up significantly in summer. Check prices and book via Ferryscanner.

FAQ — Sicily 3–5 Day Itinerary (First-Timers)

How many days do you need in Sicily for a first trip?

A week to ten days is the sweet spot I think. It gives you enough time to pick two bases, do a few day trips, and not feel like you are sprinting between sights. If you only have 3 to 5 days in Sicily, focus on one side of the island rather than trying to see everything at once.

Is 3 to 5 days in Sicily enough, or should I focus on just one side of the island?

Three to five days is absolutely enough for a memorable trip, but you will need to make a choice: western Sicily (Palermo, Agrigento, San Vito Lo Capo) or eastern Sicily (Catania, Taormina, Syracuse, Noto). Trying to do both in that timeframe means spending most of your holiday in a car.

Should I stay in Palermo or Catania for a short Sicily itinerary?

It depends entirely on what draws you. Palermo is more chaotic and historically richer. The perfect spot for culture, street food, and day trips to the coast. Catania is the better base if Etna, Taormina, and the baroque southeast are your priorities. Both are excellent!

Do you need a car in Sicily, or can you rely on trains and buses?

For the cities, you can get by without one. For everything else, hilltop villages, beaches, archaeological sites, and the Agrigento area, a car is essential. Public transport outside the main urban centres is too infrequent and unpredictable to build a trip around.

Is it realistic to visit both Palermo and Catania in one 3 to 5 day trip?

Technically yes, practically no. The drive between them is around 2.5 to 3 hours, and the time you spend shuttling across the island is time you are not spending actually enjoying it. I would recommend picking one side of the island (east or west) and plan to come back another time to visit the rest.

What are the best places to include in a short Sicily itinerary: Taormina, Siracusa, Cefalù, or the Valley of the Temples?

All four are genuinely worth it, but if you are short on time: Taormina and Siracusa are the standouts on the eastern side, and Cefalù and the Valley of the Temples are the ones to prioritise in the west. Combine the Valley of the Temples with Scala dei Turchi for a full and spectacular day out.

What is the best time to visit Sicily for good weather but fewer crowds?

October and the beginning of November are the sweet spot; the sea is still warm, the temperatures are comfortable, and the summer crowds have thinned out considerably. Late April and May are a close second, with wildflowers, cooler days, and a fraction of the August prices.

MORE TRAVEL RESOURCES FOR VISITING SICILY

Sicily – The best areas to stay in Sicily, and which ones to avoid!
Sicily – Quaint little villages to explore while visiting Sicily
Sicily – 7 Day western Sicily itinerary
Palermo – A local guide to the best Palermitan street food
Palermo – 14 Unmissable churches to visit
Palermo – 20 Things to do in Palermo
Palermo – 15 Day trips from Palermo
Catania – 15 Day trips from Catania
Italy – Comprehensive guide to being a vegetarian in Italy including regional specialties

Sicily Itinerary: Three to five days in Sicily – Pin it

---