16 Things to Do in Utrecht: Books, Castles and Canals (incl Map)

Canals that run on two levels, bright red kayaks gliding through the water, and a poem being carved into the pavement one letter at a time. These are but a few of the delights that await you in the quietest canal city in the Netherlands. From afternoons spent browsing independent bookstores to cycling to the country’s largest castle, read on for a slow traveler’s guide to 15 things to do in Utrecht.

When the invite arrived in my inbox to visit Utrecht, it took a minute to register. Utrecht? I know it’s in the Netherlands, but that is about the extent of my knowledge. Turns out there is a lot to do in Utrecht: vintage shopping on Oudegracht, clambering up the Dom Tower, exploring the many kanals from the water, finding the prettiest libraries and bookshops or popping into the two majestic castles on the outskirts of town. One does not get bored on a trip to Utrecht as I would soon find out.

Utrecht is not a starlet like Amsterdam or Rotterdam, and that is exactly why you should visit. The city does not need to audition for the role of leading lady; she is very happy starring in her own movie. Hosting the Netherlands Film Festival, being inscribed as a UNESCO City of Literature since 2027, and serving up some of the best vegan food I have ever tried.

Do not expect the Amsterdam swagger (nor the pricing for that matter), nor the hordes of tourists. In practice, this means you can plan your trip to Utrecht in the spur of the moment. This slow guide to Utrecht provides you with the tools to plan your perfect weekend, one leisurely activity at a time.

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Things to Do in Utrecht: Quick Guide

GETTING THERE: Utrecht is super well connected to most major cities in the Netherlands via rail. Check prices and the timetable via Omio and book your tickets in advance.

GETTING AROUND: When in the Netherlands, the answer is always, by bicycle. Various bike rental places dotted around the city offer (multi)-day rentals starting at €8.50 a day for a citybike and between €22 and €30 a day for electric bicycles. Check out Laag Catharijne or Black Bikes for more info.

USEFUL READING: The official website of the Utrecht Visitors Centre.

MORE GUIDES ON THE NETHERLANDS: As a Belgian, I have to admit I have made an inordinate amount of trips across the border. Take a peek at all my Netherlands guides if you are planning on exploring more of the country.

Why Visit Utrecht Instead of Amsterdam

Because it has the canals, the gabled houses and the bicycles without the stag parties or the queues. The food scene is incredible, and you pay a fraction of the price. As it sits a mere 25 minutes south of the capital by train, it is one of the easiest weekend trips from Amsterdam. So one could visit in a pinch.

What Utrecht has that Amsterdam does not is an unusual little piece of urban design. The Utrecht canals run on two levels: a street-level quay above, and a wharf level below with cellars, terraces, bars and shops directly beside the water. Those wharf cellars were medieval warehouses. Boats unloaded straight into the basements of the merchant houses above. Today they are filled with offices, shops and cozy little bars.

A Brief History of Utrecht

The Romans arrived around AD 50, found a place where the Rhine could be crossed, and built a fort on the empire’s northern frontier. They called it Traiectum, after the crossing. Now here is where things get interesting: the river they chose ran along what is now the most famous canal in the city, Oudegracht.

The canal itself was dug 1000 years later to accommodate river trade. The earth that was removed during the dig was piled up to raise the banks of the river against flooding. Those raised banks kept the floods out but left the water sitting well below the street.

So in the late twelfth century a merchant, tired of hauling cargo up to the quay only to carry it back down into his cellar, dug a tunnel from the waterline straight into his basement. His neighbours copied him; the tunnels became vaulted warehouses running under the houses and under the street.

Today, about 950 documented cellars are running across five waterways in the city: Oudegracht, Nieuwegracht, Kromme Nieuwegracht, Drift and Plompetorengracht. It is the largest network of wharves not only in the country but globally. Smaller versions can be found in Leeuwaarden, Leiden and Maastricht.

11 Things to See in Utrecht

1. Start with the unmissable: The Oudegracht

If Utrecht has a beating heart, this is it. The Oudegracht runs two kilometres straight through the middle of the city, and it does so on two levels. A feature unique to the city! The street level is dotted with stores, bars and eateries and thousands of bicycles zooming around. It’s the definition of hustle and bustle.

On a sunny day, the real magic happens on the water level, though. To reach this second level of the Oudegracht, the so-called wharves, simply traipse down any of the stone staircases. Here you can enjoy a picnic or bring a good book and watch the traffic float by.

TIP | Wander a little further away from the fish market, and you will find loads of vintage stores, boutiques selling board games, and antique stores. You will also find the Artwork Utrecht Letters, but more on that a bit later.

GOOD TO KNOW: If you want a prime people-watching spot, head to the bar The Postillon perched right off the Gaardbrug. Serves a variety of draft and bottled beers (we tried the Dutch craft brew Texels Skiller White) as well as little bites to eat.

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2. Take to the water

CANOE: Oudegracht 275, €10 per person per hour, €18 for the day
KAYAK: Oudegracht aan de Werf 14, daily 10:00 to 19:00, from €12
ELECTRIC BOAT: €85 for 1.5 hours, up to eight people

My trip to Utrecht coincided with a bout of bad weather which dissolved my resolve to take to the water. Unlike my Sicilian partner, I am more of a mountaingoat than a water baby. He joined me for my last day in the city, and upon seeing the bright red kayaks glide through the water, his first reaction was “we have to come back!”.

Unlike the busier canals of Amsterdam, you can freely Kayak, canoe, and SUP through the main canals of the city. You will be sharing them with pleasure boats, so keep this in mind. Routes are self-guided; a map and a dry bag are provided via the rental company.

Book your mode of transport

There are a lot of vendors who offer you all sorts of ways to take to the water. Here is an overview to help you pick.

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3. Climb the Dom Tower

Opening hours: guided visits only, book a timed slot | Ticket price: €15.5 | Address: meet at Domplein 9, Utrecht | Tel: +31 (0)30 236 00 10 | Duration: around one hour | Book: Online

At 112 meters, the Domtoren is the tallest church tower in the Netherlands, and the only way up is 465 steps with a guide (English and Dutch). This gargantuan tower was once part of a large church, which collapsed in a storm back in 1674. The church was not rebuilt, but thankfully the tower survived and provides the best views in the city!

The first levels are manageable. Higher up, the spiral staircase narrows down considerably. The worn, stone steps become considerably steeper and more slippery as you start to climb. The last two levels are unsuitable if you suffer from claustrophobia (like my partner).

My favorite part was standing beneath the enormous bells, which are still rung to this day. The next level winds up towards your first viewing platform, and for me personally, the best view you get. From here you can see the patchwork of canals, gabled houses, modern architecture and lush vegetation surrounding the city centre. The last level is rather windy and the view is partially covered by dense chickenwire.

FUN FACT: The gap between tower and church is not a design choice. The nave connecting them collapsed in a storm in 1674 and was never rebuilt, which is why Utrecht’s cathedral has a tower standing on its own.

PRACTICAL INFO: Arrive 15 minutes before scheduled departure and meet at the tourist office. Here you will find (free) lockers to drop your backpacks. I arrived 10 minutes late on my first attempt to climb the tower and had to reschedule my visit. Tours start on the dot. Book your tickets online in advance.

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4. Cycle out to Kasteel de Haar

Opening hours: Mon – Sun: 09.00 am – 05.00 pm | Ticket price castle & gardens: €21.5 | Address: Kasteellaan 1, 3455 RR Haarzuilens | Tel: 030-6778515 | Distance: around 25 km by the official cycling route | Website: kasteeldehaar.nl

VISITING KASTEEL DE HAAR

Castle de Haar is the largest of the castles in the Netherlands, and it has been on my bucket list for an eternity. It comes with all the traditional trimmings of a 19th-century castle: Turrets, a grand approach, mature trees, and 55 hectares of parkland with ponds, winding paths and a maze.

As with many a European castle, it has undergone a couple of facelifts. Starting off with a modest fort in 1891 when the De Haar family was granted a fiefdom, it was empty for two and a half centuries before the Dutch-Belgian baron Etienne van Zuylen and his bride Hélène de Rothschild decided they needed a little fixer-upper. These days the estate is in the hands of an organisation and no longer privately owned. The family does retain the right to use the castle for private use once month a year.

Without a doubt, this is the most beautifully preserved castle I have ever visited. The central hall is cavernous, and the furnished rooms with their decorations, including a piano and sitting rooms, feel somehow still liveable, as though someone might move back in tomorrow. The lavish gardens meanwhile are beautifully curated and wonderful for a stroll.

GOOD TO KNOW: The kiosk in the first courtyard, the one you reach from the entrance, is where to go for a proper meal, drinks and toilets. I had a vegan kroket there. The kiosk nearer the castle suits a quick snack.

BOOK YOUR TICKETS | Book your tickets for both the castle and the gardens in advance. The castle is definitely one of the most popular sites in the Netherlands, so prebooking is required. Find tickets and time slots online

GETTING TO KASTEEL DE HAAR

The castle is located around 12 kilometers from downtown Utrecht. Within minutes, the route takes you out of the hustle and bustle, and you head for greener pastures. Time permitting, you can have a little picnic or a hike around the Haaririjnse Plas, or alternatively pop into one of the many farms along the way.

In September, the farm stands were selling apples, pears and pumpkins galore. Some of them also double as a restaurant (Hoeve Wielrevelt Restaurant) where you can grab a snack before heading into town. I ran out of time for a snack but did manage to stop at Geertjes Hoeve to take a peek at all the pumpkins they had on display!

GOOD TO KNOW: If castles are your thing, De Haar is one of several within reach of the capital. I have rounded up the best of them in my guide to castles near Amsterdam.

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5. Cycle the Other Way to Slot Zuylen

Opening hours: April to October, Wednesday to Sunday 11:00 to 17:00. November to March, Friday to Sunday 11:00 to 17:00. Last entry 16:30 | Ticket: €16 adults, €8 children 4 to 15, castle and garden combined, under 4 free | Address: Tournooiveld 1, 3611 AS Oud Zuile

A few years back I was asked to do some work for Amsterdam Area, or the larger area around Amsterdam. It was on this trip that I popped into the beautiful Slot Zuylen. If you absolutely love castles, I would highly recommend extending your Utrecht trip by one day and adding in Slot Zuylen to the itinerary.

This 18th-century country house is a lot more modest than Kasteel de Haar. It’s most famous inhabitant was Isabella van Tuyll van Serooskerken, who wrote satire about the nobility (which she was part of) under the pen name Isabelle de Charrière in the late 18th century. Her works were not published until the 1980s, however, at which point she posthumously skyrocketed to fame.

Today you can wander through the castle with an audioguide and take a peek at 400 years of, dare I say it, aristocratic clutter. There is a tapestry room hung with a Delft gobelin from around 1670, a dining room lined with portraits running from 1670 to the mid-1700s, and a stone room furnished in the 1920s with cabinets from the Utrecht workshop of Johannes Rietveld.

Outside there is a 120-metre brick wall that snakes in and out in long curves. It was built that way in the eighteenth century so it would stand up without buttresses and so the bends would hold the sun’s heat, and figs still ripen against it. Beyond it the kitchen garden is still working, with greenhouses and beehives, and what it produces ends up in the café in the old carriage house.

BOOK YOUR TICKETS ONLINE | Book your tickets via the official castle website.

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6. Visit the oldest public library in the Netherlands: Bibliotheek Neude

Opening hours: Mon – Sat: 09.00 am – 09.00 pm; Sunday 10.00 am to 06.00 pm | Cost: free | Address: Neude 11, 3512 AE Utrecht | Website: bibliotheekutrecht.nl

From outside it is an enormous, austere building that I would have walked straight past were it not for my internet sleuthing before my trip to Utrecht. You see, once you step inside, this building will have you picking up your jaw off the floor.

It was built as Utrecht’s main post office, completed in 1924 by architect Joseph Crouwel Jr. in the Amsterdam School style (an architectural style which leans heavily on the Art Deco). Six enormous statues by Hendrik van den Eijnde line the walls in Belgian bluestone: five represent continents with their animals, the sixth represents trade and prosperity. The post connecting the world, carved in stone.

It became a public library in 2020, after extensive renovation works were undertaken and the labyrinth of a building was rendered accessible to all. Pop up to the first floor for the very best aerial view of the central hall and peek inside the children’s library: A dedicated room where parents and their young children can discover the delights of reading under the watchful eye of Nijntje the rabbit.

BOEKENSPEKTAKEL: As you head inside, make a left and then another left. Here you will see the project Boekenspektakel (spectacle of books). In a bid to lower the barrier to entry for both the library and writers, this project encourages anyone to bring in their original writing. It is then hung in this part of the library, and anyone can come in, borrow it and read it. You then provide a review and bring it back to the library. It is a wonderful way to encourage budding writers to share their work.

GOOD TO KNOW: The blinking pink sign on the facade is Intellectual Heritage by designer Maarten Baas, installed in 2023. The letters in the “Nu!” sign alternate to spell Vondel’s two-word poem, U, nu! It is often called the shortest poem in Dutch.

FOODIE TIP | Meneer Potter, just inside the entrance, does coffee and cake. When I popped in it was filled with people nosedeep into books, nipping cups of steaming coffee.

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7. Read in Flora’s Hof and the Pandhof van de Domkerk

Cost: free | Address: Pandhof beside the Domkerk, Domplein. Flora’s Hof just off Domplein

A two-minute Google search on places to see in Utrecht will make one of two things clear: The best views over the city are from the Dom Tower and the prettiest inner courtyard is the Pandhof. The latter is reached by walking through a little wooden door on the side of the Dom Cathedral. These 15th-century arched hallways were built as a connection between the Cathedral and the Chapter house.

At the heart of the hallway is a verdant little space which is a favorite among tourists and locals alike. When I visited, on a Sunday afternoon, it was filled with lovebirds, students shooting their fashion collection, and families with young children gurgling with delight as they raced through the arched hallways and people reading a book. Although how they did so with all the people milling around is still beyond me.

If you are looking for a quiet nook to crack open a book, walk 5 minutes to Flora’s Hof. Traverse the gates of the richly decorated 17th-century portal and step inside an oasis of calm, smack in the centre of town. This courtyard sits on the site where once stood a bishop’s palace in the 14th century, which was demolished 400 years later. The empty plot of land was rented to a flower grower turn it into a plant nursery. Since 2008, the little garden is run entirely by volunteers.

TIP | If you get hungry, you can find the best Vegan Falafel I have ever eaten just opposite the entrance to Flora’s Hof. Look for the little restaurant called FLFL Utrecht. It started as a cargo bike on a market in Groningen and expanded to 6 brick-and-mortar stores across the country.

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8. Hunt down the coolest street art

Cost: free | Where: De Letters van Utrecht starts in the centre; Evening Time Is Reading Time is on Korte Smeestraat | When: a new letter is carved every Saturday at 01.00 pm. The Korte Smeestraat piece only lights up after dark

On the food tour we did at the very end of our stay, our guide, Patrick, gave us sage advice: “Always make sure to look both up and down when exploring the city”. And thankfully we did; otherwise, we would have missed many of the 150 literary artworks dotted around the city. Two artworks are worth taking a little detour to explore.

DE LETTERS VAN UTRECHT: A poem with no ending carved letter by letter into the cobblestones. It opened in 2012 with the first 648 letters, backdated to every Saturday since 1 January 2000, and it has grown by one letter a week ever since. Currently the poem runs for 100 meters along the Oudegracht. The planned route should take the project until 2350 to complete, thus handing it over to many future generations.

EVENING TIME IS READING TIME: Walk to the Korte Smeestraat after dark. In 1991 the American artist Allen Ruppersberg asked the residents of that street what they did with their evenings and what they did for a living, and made each of about twenty houses its own illuminated sign, styled like a 1960s advertisement. Reading came up so often that it gave the work its title.

PRACTICAL TIP | If you want to find them yourself, Utrecht University runs straatpoezie.nl, which maps street poetry across the Netherlands, and the city keeps its own database of more than 400 public artworks. Both are free, both have routes, and between them they turn an afternoon’s wandering into a treasure hunt.

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9. Take the V for Food Vegan Food Tour

When: Friday, Saturday and Sunday | Group size: minimum 4, maximum 12 | Duration: around 3 to 3.5 hours, roughly 7 stops | Start point: Domplein, by the resistance monument | Price: [CONFIRM] | Bookings: Online

The absolute highlight of our trip. The tour was created by two passionate locals, Patrick and Daisy. We were guided along by Patrick, who is a warm, unhurried storyteller who embodies the pillars the tour stands for: food, the city, and entrepreneurship. That last one is absolutely the differentiating factor. Each stop is a business run by a fellow human being who has a story to tell and a vision to share. And for 3.5 hours, we were fed, watered, and regaled with uplifting stories of local entrepreneurs.

Scroll down to the recommended restaurants in Utrecht section to find a handful of the places that were recommended on the tour. This list does not delve into the history of the city, or the entire story of the local entrepreneurs. If you are looking for a fun way to spend half a day in Utrecht, I highly recommend booking yourself on this tour!

GOOD TO KNOW: V for Food also runs tours in Amsterdam, Rotterdam and The Hague, plus a cycling tour from April to September, and they have an app if you would rather go self-guided.

BOOK YOUR SPOT | If you want to take the tour (and I highly recommend it) make sure to book in advance. Do not have breakfast before you go on the tour because you will be full at the end, I guarantee it! You can easily book online in advance.

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10. Spot Nijntje in the city

Exploring Utrecht, you will be hard-pressed not to see the various iterations of a little white bunny. You can see traffic lights with a bunny in the Potterstraat, statues on the Mariaplaats and the Nijntje Pleintje, stores with painted bunny ears and bars with lamps in the shape of a cartoon bunny.

This little figure is called Nijntje, and she was created by local Utrechter Dirk Bruna. You might know her as Miffy, the heroine of a series of tiny picture books for children too young to read on their own. UNESCO has named her as a character who helped millions of children learn how to read.

I grew up in Belgium and Nijntje books are part and parcel of every kid’s childhood here. The little rabbit somehow withstood my teenage years, where she was sent as memes to friends, and into adulthood, where I now gift Nijntje books to my friends’ children. She has breached the borders of the Benelux, and has gone on to become an international star, which becomes very clear once you see the lines waiting outside the Nijntje museum.

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11. Explore some of the quirky museums in Utrecht

SONNENBORGH MUSEUM AND OBSERVATORY | Two museums wearing one coat. It sits on a sixteenth-century bastion that formed part of the city’s defences, and it is also a working observatory with historic telescopes. You get the old fortification, then the history of astronomy, then displays on local timekeeping and the Utrecht meridian, which is a thing I did not know existed! The walk there is absolutely part of the fun, following the singel round the line of the old defensive works. Allow for 45 min to visit. || Tickets €13 (adults)

HET SPOORWEGMUSEUM | There are few things I love more in the world than a vintage train, and this museum has a ton of them for you to oogle at. It lives inside Maliebaanstation, a real former railway station! We visited during Open Monument Day (happens once a year) and were lucky enough to be allowed inside the actual trains! Usually one can only view the various carriages from outside. Allow for 2 hours to visit the museum || €19.5 tickets for anyone over 4

MUSEUM SPEELKLOK | A museum of self-playing musical instruments, meaning machines that make music with nobody playing them. Music boxes, musical clocks, pianolas, barrel organs including the enormous Dutch street organs, and a turret clock with a carillon. It claims the largest collection of musical automata anywhere. Housed in the Buurkerk, a medieval parish church in the middle of town. || Tickets €18.5 (adults)

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12. Buy flowers at the Janskerhof Saturday Market

When: every Saturday morning from 08.00 am to 05.00 pm | Where: Janskerkhof

You notice this market before you reach it. Cyclists come past with enormous bouquets in baskets and sticking out of backpacks, as though the whole city were going to the same wedding. Never in my life have I seen so many different types of flowers and plants being transported on bicycles.

The stalls sell bouquets, loose stems, bulbs, houseplants, seeds and garden plants, and in September it was sunflowers and vividly coloured dahlias which stood in stark contrast to the decidedly gray sky. Regardless of the gloomy weather, locals came out in droves to purchase their weekly flowers. A small stand also sells coffee and hot drinks if you need a pick-me-up.

TIP | If you love markets, you might also want to check out the Lapjesmarket (fabric and textile market), which is held on the Breedstraat on Saturday morning from 08.00 am to 01.00 pm

4 Attractions in Utrecht That Are Not in the Tourist Guidebooks

13. Browse the independent bookshops

The bookshops in Utrecht always seemed to have people milling around inside them, which is not something I can say of bookshops anywhere else I have been. In a world where bookshops seem to be slowly dying out, Utrecht definitely stands out. Here are a couple of bookshops that are well worth supporting.

Savannah Bay | Feminist bookshop founded in the 1970s, two minutes from the Drift. Post-colonial studies, LGBTQIA+ fiction, poetry, feminist theory, monthly events. Has a selection of Dutch and English books.

De Utrechtse Boekenbar | A bookshop with a coffee patio that runs events with writers and local artists. Warmly recommended to us by our local tour guide Patrick.

Boekhandel Steven Sterk | At the foot of the Dom, right opposite the FLFL restaurant and next to Flora’s hof. History, philosophy, poetry and remaindered stock in English and Dutch.

Boekhandel Bijleveld | Has your typical cozy, yet academic bookstore vibe. Good selection of political books on offer in both English and Dutch.

Interglobe | Travel and geography only. Travelogues, atlases, maps, books about birds.

Books 4 Life | Volunteer-run charity shop, second-hand, everything between one and five euros, profits to good causes. The one that fits your ethos best.

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14. Order an Irish Coffee and an appelbol at Graaf Floris on the Vismarkt

Address: Vismarkt, Utrecht | Look for: the facade reading “De Gebroeders Engel, vishandelaars” | Opening hours: Daily 08.30 am – 09.00 pm.

The Vismarkt still has the stone fish slabs set into the ground from its days as a fish market, and the facades around it carry the names of the traders who worked here. The one that caught my eye was the beautiful façade that read De Gebroeders Engel, vishandelaars, the Engel brothers, fishmongers. The days of selling fish are long gone; these days it’s a café and restaurant.

When I walked by, the place was jam-packed with a mix of locals and tourists, so naturally I had to walk in and see what the fuss was about. Operating as a café since the early 1970s, Graaf Floris has changed hands many a time. Yet throughout the change of ownership, the café has always kept serving Irish Coffee (made from scratch at the table) and warme appelbollen (appelbeignets).

Naturally I ordered both. Let me tell you, I walked out tipsy. They do not joke around with their Irish Coffee; it’s strong enough to make the hair on the back of your neck stand up. It pairs beautifully with the sweet, crispy appelbeignet. The outside terrace is a nice spot for people-watching.

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15. Walk the Nieuwegracht

The Oudegracht is the canal everyone photographs; the Nieuwegracht is blissfully quiet and arguably equally magnificent. Lavish houses, a waterway, almost no commercial activity, and a decidedly residential feel are what await you along this canal. It has the same two-level wharves, but these cellars were private, built for the wealthy houses above rather than for trade, which is why the canal is still so quiet.

PAUSHUIZE | Where the canal bends into the Kromme Nieuwegracht, you reach the Pausdam, and the handsome pile on the corner is Paushuize, built from 1517 for Adriaan Floriszoon Boeyens, born in Utrecht and the only Dutch pope. He commissioned it as the house he meant to come home to, and he never lived in it. He was elected Pope Adrian VI in 1522 while abroad and died in Rome in 1523, after roughly twenty months. Go on the last Sunday of the month and you can get inside.

SIC SEMPER | The turreted neo-Gothic building facing Paushuize was a gentlemen’s club, founded in 1775 as the Oranjesociëteit for merchants, nobility and the sort of official who had opinions about both. Under French rule the Orange name became a liability, so the members renamed it Sic Semper, “thus it shall remain,” which is a very grand way of saying nothing has changed here. These days it houses twelve apartments.

THE GLOBE | Keep walking south and look up at numbers 15 to 17, a pair of houses called De Wereldkloot, the globe. There is a bronze figure on the facade buckling under the weight of the sky. Two wooden Atlases stood there until the early 1900s. The bronze that replaced them in 1997 is by sculptor Ton Mooy, and he changed the story: this is Heracles, at the moment he hands the heavens back to Atlas after tricking him into taking them.

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16. Wander the 7 Straatjes

Where: a cluster just west of the Dom | Best time: Friday and Saturday evening for the student crowd

Utrecht has a named cluster of seven small streets, De 7 Straatjes, which interlock through alleys and squares just off the Dom. They are Bakkerstraat, Zadelstraat, Lijnmarkt, Schoutenstraat, Vinkenburgstraat, Keistraat and Drieharingstraat. These little alleys are a photographer’s dream!

If you are looking for vibes, make a beeline for the Voorstraat on Saturday morning. This little street is one small coffee bar and brunch bar after another. The perfect place to spend a leisurely Saturday morning. The Minrebroederstraat, which is so cool it makes you feel boring: independent stores, a university building, an independent bookshop, and on Friday evening students spilling out of the bars to sit and talk on the church steps with beers.

Best Restaurants in Utrecht for Vegetarians and Vegans

GYS | Gys opened in 2014, and everything is made in-house: certified organic, plant-based, gluten-free, with the menu changing by season. The first thing I saw was a big fat plushy cat asleep on a table. One of the many housecats I was told! The pancakes we tasted were finger-licking good.

LIFE’S A PEACH | If you look up cozy in the dictionary, you will find a picture of this little eaterie/coffee bar. Serving vegan treats such as warm focaccia, pastries, and other delicacies alongside good Italian coffee. Fun fact: all objects you see inside are designed by local artists and can be purchased. Proceeds go directly to the local artists.

KOFFIEBAR KLUTS | Vegan coffee bar nestled at the back of the Dom. Serving up some of the most delicious vegan cookies I have ever had the pleasure of biting into. Highly recommend grabbing breakfast here or a pick-me-up in the afternoon.

COPPER BRANCH | The Dutch franchise (locally owned) of one of the largest Vegan chains in the world. Serving up healthy, locally sourced comfort foods. We tried one of their (vegan) burgers, and it hit the spot! Try their vegan take on the city’s most famous sandwich: Broodje Mario. Aptly renamed to Boordje Maria in this restaurant.

LANDHUIS IN DE STAD | Located in a seventeenth-century country house that has been a tea house and a library. Candlelit, warm, focused on local ingredients with a seasonal menu. The restaurant also runs a beautiful initiative called Wereldkeuken, where new Utrechters cook dishes from their home countries, and an Aanschuiftafel, where neighborhood residents eat together at one table.

LEO LEO | A very cozy French neighborhood bistro and small hotel at the start of Twijnstraat, one of Utrecht’s oldest shopping streets. Has both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options on the menu. We went for a leisurely lunch.

ROOIE NEL | Sits on the Vecht by the Rode Brug in the monumental former ‘t Vechthuis. Low light, candles and impeccable service ensured this was the most romantic restaurant of the entire trip. Vegetarian options are available, though choice is limited. We did not see any vegan options on the menu.

Where to Stay in Utrecht

How Do You Get Around Utrecht

You follow the cardinal rule of any trip to the Netherlands: Rent a bicycle. This time around I saw locals carting golf clubs, baguettes, and even a ladder with them on their bicycle. You name it, and they will transport it…on two wheels.

Cycling around any Dutch city is not for the faint of heart, let’s be honest. While the infrastructure is impeccable – specific traffic lights, underpasses for cyclists, cycling lanes in the smallest of alleys – the unspoken rules of the game are sometimes a little vague. Those of us mere mortals who did not grow up riding a bicycle might need a bit of time to understand them.

Give yourself a day to ease into the rhythm; trust me, you will get the hang of it. The city is large enough to warrant an alternative mode of transport other than one’s own two feet.

GOOD TO KNOW: Bicycle parking is not optional. Improperly parked bikes can be removed, so allow time to find an official rack or a bicycle garage. Fear not, they are easy to spot and usually overflowing with bikes.

Best Time to Visit Utrecht

May to September, because you get to enjoy the canals at their fullest. Have a picnic on the wharf terraces, rent a kayak and explore the canals, or rent a bicycle and cycle around the city and its lush surroundings. Utrecht gets 895mm of rain across about 135 wet days a year, so do make sure to bring a raincoat.

Spring in Utrecht

Average highs: 10.5°C in March to 18°C in May | Lows: 2.5 to 8°C | Driest month of the year: April, around 45mm over 9 days

April is statistically the driest month Utrecht gets. King’s Day on 27 April turns the Oudegracht into a boat party with a city-wide flea market around it, and the Liberation Day festival on 5 May at Park Transwijk is one of the largest in the country.

Summer in Utrecht

Average highs: 21 to 23°C | Lows: around 13°C | Sunshine: roughly 7 hours a day

This is the wharf at full volume: terraces, kayaks, barbecues and the two-level canals. Utrecht Canal Pride in early June sends decorated boats through the old town, and the Midzomergracht festival mid-June puts theatre, film and music along the water.

Autumn in Utrecht

Average highs: 19°C in September falling to 10°C in November | Lows: 4 to 10°C | Rain: increasing through the season

This is when I went, and it was very cozy. The flower market was sunflowers and dahlias; the little farms selling produce between Utrecht and Kasteel de Haar had apples, pears, and pumpkins to sell. The Netherlands Film Festival and its Golden Calf awards are in late September, and Open Monumentendag opens buildings that are usually shut. We got to see the inside of the vintage trains in the Railway Museum!

Winter in Utrecht

Average highs: 6 to 7°C | Lows: around 1°C | Wettest month: December, around 95mm over 14 days | Sunshine: about 2 hours a day

Is Utrecht Worth Visiting?

Yes! If I had to choose between Amsterdam and Utrecht, I would definitely recommend people visit Utrecht. Do not get me wrong, I love Amsterdam but find it a bit overwhelming, expensive, and increasingly overrun by rowdy partygoers. One needs to book the highlights in advance, and the city requires some deep research to find out which places are locally run as opposed to chains/tourist traps.

Utrecht is unhurried, unbothered, and one cannot throw a stone without hitting a bookstore, vintage store, or a spot that combines both, preferably perched on the wharf by the water. It’s a city filled with students, fresh ideas, art, and quirky little museums and storefronts. Yet it also feels sufficiently ‘Old World’ (think castles, historical monuments, picture-perfect canals) to avoid feeling like it’s shiny and new (the feeling I always get when in Rotterdam).

Somehow it has managed to find the precarious balance between old and new in a quintessential no-nonsense Dutch way. Absolutely worth going to.

Responsible and Sustainable Guide to Utrecht

COME BY TRAIN: Utrecht is super well connected to most major cities in the Netherlands via rail. Check prices and the timetable via Omio and book your tickets in advance.

CYCLE EVERYWHERE: When in the Netherlands, the answer is always, by bicycle. Various bike rental places dotted around the city offer (multi)-day rentals starting at €8.50 a day for a citybike and between €22 and €30 a day for electric bicycles. Check out Laag Catharijne or Black Bikes for more info.

REUSABLE WATER BOTTLE: Tap water is perfectly drinkable in Utrecht so make sure to bring your reusable bottle

BUY SECOND HAND AND LOCAL INSTEAD OF A FRIDGE MAGNET. SECONDSAS at Oudegracht 193 and Sisters 2ehands at Oudegracht 224 sit on the canal walk. Kringloop de ARM is at Oudegracht 253 and 255. In de Voorstraat there are three: Blackfish at number 6, Sussies Vintage at 48, and Appel & Ei at 61A. Sussies is the one for 1970s dresses and cowboy boots.

TAKE AN ELECTRIC BOAT OR KAYAK: Getting on the water is definitely one of the highlights of Utrecht and the city is working hard towards ensuring all the boats are electric but we are not there yet. Either rent a kayak, or opt to do a tour on a fully electric boat. Have a look at KINboat who run tours with fully electric boats.

USE WECUP: A growing number of Utrecht cafés run on WeCup, a Dutch reusable cup system. You order, you drink, you hand the cup back, and it gets collected and washed for the next person. The café absorbs the cost, so all it asks of you is choosing the place. Scroll all the way down on the official website to find participating places in Utrecht.

Map of Things to Do in Utrecht

This map contains all the sights covered in this guide to Utrecht. Click on this interactive Google map to have a better view.

Utrecht FAQ

What are the best things to do in Utrecht?

Make yourself a picnic and head down to the Oudegracht, climb the Dom Tower, visit Bibliotheek Neude, cycle to Kasteel de Haar, and get some fresh flowers at the weekly flower market (Bloemenmarkt Janskerkhof).

How many days do you need in Utrecht?

Two days cover the center comfortably. Three lets you add Kasteel de Haar or a museum without rushing.

What to do in Utrecht in one day?

Walk the Oudegracht, grab a kayak and explore the canals, climb the Dom Tower, pop into Flora’s Garden and Pandhof, and visit Bibliotheek Neude.

How do I get from Amsterdam to Utrecht?

Direct trains from Amsterdam Centraal take around 25 minutes and run very frequently. Check prices and the timetable via Omio and book your tickets in advance.

Why is Utrecht a UNESCO City of Literature?

It was designated in 2017 for its literary heritage and its contemporary literary life, including over 150 poetry and literary artworks displayed across the city.

Is Utrecht good for vegetarians and vegans?

Exceptionally. It has one of the strongest plant-based scenes in the Netherlands, built around independent local businesses rather than chains.

Do you need a bicycle in Utrecht?

Not strictly, since the center is walkable. But the city is built for cycling and you will see far more of it on two wheels.

Is Utrecht worth visiting for a weekend?

Yes. A weekend in Utrecht is definitely worth it. There is something for everyone (foodies, cultural enthusiasts, book lovers). If you are new to the Netherlands, it’s a great gateway into Dutch culture, without the hordes of tourists. I absolutely loved my time in the city and would not mind coming back in spring to explore some of the places I did not get to see.

Is the Dom Tower climb difficult?

There are 465 steps and the upper spiral staircase is narrow. Manageable for most people with reasonable fitness, but not recommended if you are claustrophobic.

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MORE TRAVEL RESOURCES FOR VISITING THE NETHERLANDS

NETHERLANDS: 16 Most Beautiful Castles in the Netherlands
AMSTERDAM: 25 Weekend Trips from Amsterdam Reachable by Train
AMSTERDAM: 18 Places to Visit Near Amsterdam by Train
AMSTERDAM: 6 Biking Trips Around Amsterdam: Exploring the Dutch Countryside
AMSTERDAM: Castles Near Amsterdam: 16 Dutch Castles to Visit
BRUGES: Amsterdam to Bruges Day Trip: What to See, Do & Eat
BRUSSELS: One Day Trip From Amsterdam to Brussels
FLEVOLAND: Things To Do in Flevoland, Netherlands
FRIESLAND: Things to Do in Friesland & the West Frisian Islands
FRIESLAND: Frisian Islands Netherlands: A Guide for the Adventurous
HAARLEM: Haarlem – The Perfect Day Trip from Amsterdam
LEIDEN: Weekend Leiden: Things to See and Do in Leiden
NAARDEN: 10 Things to Do in Naarden
NORTH BRABANT: Exploring North Brabant in the Footsteps of Vincent Van Gogh
ROTTERDAM: Sustainable Weekend in Rotterdam: Best Things to See, Do and Eat
WEESP: 8 Things to Do in Weesp: Things to See, Practical Tips & Where to Eat

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