The youngest of the vulcanic islands, Faial, is oftentimes quite literally overshadowed by neighboring Pico and Terceira. While it is smaller in size, it has arguably one of the best hikes and vulcanic museums to be found in the archipelago. There are plenty of things to do in Faial Island, making it well worth a visit!
During my 10-day journey through the Azores, I explored the islands of Terceira, São Miguel, Pico, and Faial. A geological hotspot at the convergence of three tectonic plates, Faial is a wonderland of craters and chimneys. Its most famous volcanic site, the Capelinhos Volcano, emerged during a dramatic eruption in 1957, reshaping the island’s coastline.
Beyond its volcanic heritage, Faial will charm your pants off with quiet farming parishes, jaw-dropping black sandy beaches, and rugged little coves. With limited crowds thanks to strict tourism policies, our 2-day Faial itinerary was wonderfully authentic with a side of magic. Let me take you through the various things to do, places to eat, and leave you with a few practical tips!
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1. Stroll through Horta
The capital of Faial, Horta, is a quiet port town with a rather impressive array of boats on display set against. Historically a port of call between Europe and the Americas set against the dramatic backdrop of nearby Mount Pico. These days however the galleons in the marina have made way for luxury yachts and pirate attire swapped for the more upscale outfit of the modern-day adventurer, polo shirts.
One thing that has held steadfast across the centuries however is the superstitious nature of sailors: To assure safe passage the names of boats must be painted on the docks of Horta Port. Walk across the marina and take in the colorful array of paintings and nautical art lathered across the stones in varying degrees of success.
After browsing through the open-air art gallery, we took a stroll through the sleepy town. The tiled façades of the houses are a silent reminder of the wealth that was accrued here by merchands of bygone times. We popped into the 16th century São Salvador Church with its azulejo-clad chancel and got a coffee at the liveliest bar in town, Peter Café Sport.
HOW TO GET AROUND | We rented a car and explored Faial on our own. There are however a plethora of options if you do not want to drive yourself. This top-rated full day tour (including lunch) covers the highlights of Faial. Alternatively, you can book a half-day tour and spend the rest of the day lounging on the beach!
2. Head up to Monte da Guia
Once an ancient submarine vulcano, now fused with the island of Faial. Monte da Guia is one of two peaks standing guard over the town of Horta. Naturally, our first thing to do on Faial was to find a way to get up this volcano. Turns out, there are two ways to conquer it: Hike or drive.
Due to a decidedly sore gluteus maximus from climbing Mount Pico the day before, we opted to take the lazy route and drove up. If you do want to hike there are several different trails starting from Horta, the most well-known being the Entre Montes walking trail (PRC08FAI). Check out AllTrails for the various route options.
If you opted to drive, make your way to the edge of the harbor and simply follow the winding, paved roads up. Getting lost is impossible. Once you reach the top there are various viewpoints:
Miradouro da Lira: The first viewpoint along the road. It has a small wedge where cars can park, but space is limited. Offers the best views over Porto Pim.
Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Guia: This little chapel is dedicated to the patron saint of the fishermen and sailors. Located a 2-minute drive up from the abovementioned Miradouro. The views here come in from all sides: Caldeira do Inferno on the left and Porto Pim Bay on the right. There is more parking space available here.
3. Watch the sunrise at Espalamaca Lookout
Arguably the very best viewpoint in Faial, that is if and when the weather decides to join the party. During our trip to Faial, we had a small 15-minute window where Mount Pico peaked out from behind a thick layer of mist. Nearby São Jorge, normally on full display from this viewpoint, remained firmly hidden behind a neverending array of fluffy clouds.
Trying to snap a shot of the 30-meter statue of Our Lady of Conception, surrounded by crystalline water and fluorescent green pastures, a volcano looming in the background and the wind desperately ripping at my raincoat was pretty much the quintessential Azorean experience in my book.
Getting to the viewpoint is a peace of cake. Simply drive 10 minutes from Horta along a paved road that takes you right up to the viewpoint. Limited parking spaces are available on both sides of the road. Weather permitting I would very much recommend coming up here with a cold drink and a snack to watch the sunset.
4. Catch the sunset at Porto Pim Beach
Located right off the harbor of Horta, Porto Pim is the most visited beach on the island. Banish those thoughts of white sandy beaches or – heaven for bid – lounge chairs and cocktail-bearing waiters. This is a true Azorean beach with black sand and a minimal amount of amenities.
What does give the beach a leg-up is the location in a sheltered bay making the waters very tranquil and perfect to swim with the kids. On-site you will find a small building with toilets, a restaurant, and a spot to change your clothes. From what I read online during the bathing season (May to October) the beach has lifeguards and a system of flags indicating if the water is suitable to swim.
However when we traipsed up mid-October none of the above was present and the facilities seemed to be closed. It might have been due to the time of the year, or the fact our trip occurred in conjunction with an Atlantic hurricane, the effects of which could be felt throughout the islands in the form of heavy winds and rains. Make sure to check with your accommodation or local guide
TIP | Porto Pim Beach is a great spot for sunset. If you do not feel like making the drive up to the Espalamaca Lookout, head to this beach instead.
5. Delve into the inner workings of volcanoes at the Capelinhos Volcano and Interpretation Center
Faial was the second island we explored during our 10-day trip to the Azores, yet it was not until we visited the Interpretation Center that I truly felt like I had some semblance of understanding for the patches of vulcanic land we were galavanting across. In fact in started before we even set foot in the museum, on the drive over.
The Interpretation Center is located by the Capelinhos volcano, on the westernmost point of Faial. This volcano erupted between 1957 and 1958 and now has a 2km-wide surface caldeira (bowl-shaped hollow that forms shortly after the emptying of a magma chamber in a volcanic eruption). The landscape surrounding the vulcano is decidedly lunar-like, save for that one tower defiantly jutting out, remnants of the old lighthouse and now home to the museum. Once this patch of land was home to 2000 inhabitants, their hime now buried under ash and pumice.
Inside the museum, we learned a lot about the various different types of volcanoes, the formation of the Azorean archipelago, and the differences between the islands. With various interactive exhibits, photographs, artifacts, and even a movie the museum takes a rather dry substance and manages to transform it into bitsize knowledge that even my goldfish of a brain managed to retain!
TIP | Make the Interpretation Center one of your first places to visit in Faial, it will shed a whole different light on how you see the islands. At least it did for me!
OPENING HOURS | Tuesday to Sunday, 10 AM to 5:30 PM
FEE |€10
ADDRESS |Farol dos Capelinhos, 9900-000 Capelo, Portugal
PRACTICAL | A large parking lot is available about 250 meters from the entrance of the museum.
6. Hike the rim of a crater – Caldeira Hiking Trail
This is one of the coolest things to do in Faial! Hiking along the ridge of a long-dormant volcanic heart smack in the middle of a tiny island in the Atlantic Ocean was probably hovering near the top of my “things to do before I kick the bucket” – list. Alas, on the list it shall remain as the day we had scheduled the hike, the abovementioned Atlantic Hurricane was out in full force and the winds were too high to make the hike.
That being said, I truly hope you get the experience the hike! The drive from Horta to the trailhead, an ample parking lot on the slopes of the Caldeira, offers some of the best vistas on the island. Make sure to plan in a bit of extra time when driving to the Caldeira in order to account for the stops you will want to make at the various miradouros along the way.
After parking the car, enter the Caldera through a mossy tunnel leading to the volcano’s rim. As you walk up to the wooden barrier you get to peek into the 2-kilometer-wide crater. Here you will find a small plaque explaining the trail and a few bits and bobs about the fauna and flora of the area.
WEATHER | Check the weather on the Spot Azores Live Weather Camera before you head out.
WHAT TO WEAR | Make sure to wear proper hiking shoes and always bring a raincoat with you (just in case)
TRAIL | Circular; 6.8 km (4.2 mi); easy; 2h30 completion time
TRAIL ROUTE | Check out the full route on AllTrails
ALTERNATIVE HIKE | If you are not looking to merely hike the rim of the volcano, there is an option to book a guided hike where you descend into the Caldeira itself. This hike can only be done with a certified guide and is not recommended for travelers who are inexperienced hikers. The tour takes roughly 4 hours from start to finish. Check prices and availability.
7. Visit the most beautiful black sand beach – Praia de Almoxarife
While Porto Pim Beach is the most popular beach on Faial, Almoxarife Beach is without a doubt the most beautiful. We visited it with bad weather, and it was still very impressive. On a clear day, you have unimpeded views over Mount Pico!
Located roughly 5 kilometers (3,1 mi) from Horta, it’s worth hopping in the car for a look. Right off the beach, you will find a very ample parking place as well as a small camping area (Praia do Almoxarife Campsite). This beach has lifeguards and facilities including a spot to shower, change your clothes, and grab something to eat and drink (no less than 2 bars and restaurants to choose from).
Aside from the beach, there are a few sights in the neighborhood worth checking out: Fort of Nossa Senhora do Rosário, Fort of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, Fort of Senhor Santo Cristo; Church of Our Lady of Grace and the Poço Forest Park/Poça das Asas.
8. Hit the water: Diving & Snorkeling
We had initially planned on both diving and whale watching in Faial but ended up having to adapt our plans due to the weather. The core diving season in the Azores is June to September and Faial is one of the best islands to pull on your finds. Surrounding the island are numerous little caves and shipwrecks. Additionally, it is one of the only places in the world where you can dive with blue sharks.
FEE | Prices for diving start at €60 per person. Check the type of dive you are looking for (deep diving, shark diving, shipwreck diving) on the Dive Visit Azores dedicated website. Here you will find a host of accredited diving centers to pick from.
TIP | If you are truly looking for a unique experience make sure to book a dive or snorkeling trip to the Princess Alice bank. Depending on the time of year, this is a hotspot for mantas and blue sharks! This is however a full-day trip as it will require getting to the Alice Bank. It also does not come cheap, starting at €350 per person it’s definitely a splurge. Find more information and pricing online.
9. Visit Ribeirinha
As we were cruising along the island, I noticed a beautiful bay with a single church spire sticking out. We decided to go and explore and ended up in the village of Ribeirinha. This little bolthole was partially destroyed in a massive earthquake in 1998, remnants of the destruction can be found in the ruins of both the Ribeirinha lighthouse and the São Mateus church.
Aside from the lighthouse and the church, there is not much to see in the village. Interestingly enough it is the starting point to a set of trails that crisscross the island. The most well-known is the circular 8.4 km (5.2 mi) Ribeirinha – Faial PRC09 FAI hike which takes you by both the lighthouse and the church.
PRACTICAL TIP | Check out the various other (longer) hikes on AllTrails.
10. Book a whale and dolphin-watching experience
The Azores are one of the best places in the world to go whale watching. This activity is offered on all of the islands, so if the weather gets in the way during your visit to Faial do not fret! Either book your experience online or alternatively head to the Naturalist Base Lab to book an ethical whale-watching experience with Marine Biologists.
Where to Stay in Faial
Nearly all the accommodations on Faial Island are in the main town of Horta. This is also where we stayed due to the proximity to both the airport and the ferry terminal (we traveled to Pico Island by ferry). Either browse the various hotels in Horta or have a look at my top picks below.
WHERE WE STAYED: Hotel do Canal
Located in the Marina of Horta with spectacular views over Mount Pico, on-site parking, and a 24-hour reception. The hotel itself had comfortable beds, a gy,m and extensive spa facilities. We chose it mostly for the location and of course the unbeatable view.
BEST VIEWS: Lofts Azul Pastel
Located slightly outside of Horta, just above a very tranquil stretch of beach. This condo hotel is perfect if you are visiting Faial as a family. It comes with a garden, fully equipped kitchen and the most breathtaking view out of any hotel on the island.
BOUTIQUE B&B: Pousada Forte da Horta
If you are looking for a hotel with a superb location, spectacular view, and a historical character then stop your scrolling. The Pousada Forte da Horta is located in one of the historical forts by Horta Bay. We walked by here a couple of times and the building is just something else! Not to mention the swimming pool overlooking the marina.
Practical Tips for Visiting Faial Island
What to pack for the Azores
The Azores have a generally tepid, oceanic, mild to warm subtropical climate. Leave your heavy clothes at home, temperature wise the islands never drop below 13°C (55°F). What you will want to pack is a good raincoat, hiking boots, and many breathable layers of clothing.
Weather in the Azores
Keep an eye on the weather via the Spot Azores Webcams set-up across the various islands for this very purpose. As is oftentimes the case for islands, the weather can be very fickle. We noticed that traditional weather apps did not really work for the Azores and relied on these webcams instead.
Best time to visit Faial island
The driest months of the year are between June and September, this is also the time of year when the flowers tend to come out. That being said, prices triple and the islands are absolutely jam-packed. Personally I would avoid these months at all costs instead opting for shoulder season. We visited in October and were able to walk around in a T-shirt!
How to get around Faial
We did not see much public transportation between the various highlights of Faial.
RENT A CAR | We ended up renting a car right at the airport. The number of rental cars available on Faial is limited so make sure you book way in advance. We dropped off our car at the Port of Horta before taking the ferry to Pico. Before you go, make sure to read up on what to expect when renting a car in the Azores. Check pricing and book online.
TOUR | If you do not feel comfortable driving, there are a host of affordable tour options ranging from €50 to €110 per person. Have a browse on Viator or GetYourGuide for the best tours.
How to Get to Faial Island in the Azores
FLY | Most international travelers first fly into São Miguel’s Ponta Delgada Airport (PDL), the main gateway to the Azores. From there, regional carrier SATA/Azores Airlines provides frequent flights to Horta Airport (HOR) on Faial. If you’re already in the Azores, direct flights are available from Terceira and other islands.
FERRY | Alternatively, ferries operated by Atlânticoline connect Faial to nearby islands, such as Pico (30 minutes) and São Jorge (1-2 hours), making island-hopping easy. Tickets can be bought online or at the ticket counter of the departure terminal.
Where to eat and drink in Faial
CANTO DA DOCA: Located in the Horta Marina, this was the perfect spot for lunch as we waited out the rain. We were presented with a large, hot, vulcanic stone on which we grilled out meat, fish, and veggies. Each person had their own stone which for me as the only vegetarian was great!
GENUINO RESTAURANT: I absolutely adored this restaurant. After finishing up a delicious meal (though in full transparency it is mainly a fish-based restaurant) we spent a good hour chatting with the owner Genuino. With a twinkle in his eye, he told us about the two times he sailed across the world and his many adventures along the way. Now he invites the world to visit him while showing them true Azorean hospitality. Truly a must!
PETER’S CAFE SPORT: The place to be in Faial. This rowdy establishment has been around since 1918 and was one of the favorite hangouts for local sailors. When we visited it seemed to have been turned into a popular tourist hangout, yet it did not feel like a tourist trap in the slightest. We had an excellent vegetarian-friendly lunch before taking the ferry to Pico.
MORE TRAVEL RESOURCES FOR VISITING PORTUGAL
CENTRAL PORTUGAL: Four day roadtrip through Central Portugal
AZORES: 10 Day Azores Itinerary
AZORES: 10 Things to do in Terceira Island
AZORES: 7 Things to do in Pico Island
AZORES: Renting a car in the Azores, wisdom or folly?
AZORES: 50 Things to do in the Azores
AZORES: 22 Things to do on São Miguel Island
AZORES: Visiting Miradouro da Boca do Inferno on São Miguel Island
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