Al Andalus: Old-School Glamour Through the Heart of Andalucía

A luxury train weaving through dusty planes and olive groves, flecked with little white villages along Spain’s most illustrious region. The Al Andalus epitomizes glamorous travel, transporting discerning travelers from Málaga to Sevilla in a 7-day luxury train cruise. Time to pack your fedora, floaty dresses, and best dinner jackets, you are in for quite the adventure!

It is no secret that sleeper trains have made a roaring comeback post-pandemic. Soaking up the wild beauty of Europe from the comfort of one’s bed has never been more appealing. Especially when that bed is cocooned in a plush train carriage, with vintage touches like brass lamps, fine marquetry, and tasseled curtains.

When the call came in to hop aboard the Al Andalus southern Spain earlier this year, I all but flew out the door. This storied train is the starlet of Renfe’s fleet of luxury trains which include the Costa Verde Express and Transcatabrico in northern Spain. After having my appetite wet by the former on a memorable trip the previous year, I was more than ready to taste the main course.

The Al Andalus is the quintessential train journey for the epicurious, slow traveler who loves a side of culture paired with a glass of local (sherry) wine. Starting from the sun-drenched beaches of Málaga, the train barrels onwards to Granada, Córdoba, Ronda, and a smattering of other starlets of the region before coming to a halt in Sevilla. Let me take you along on what would turn out to be the trip of a lifetime.

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Al Andalus: Quick Planning Guide

ROUTE: The train travels between Málaga and Sevilla, or vice versa. This particular article details the former.

BOOKING: Can be done directly online via the website of the Al Andalus train

WHAT TO BRING: Earplugs, sleeping mask, walking shoes, book, both casual and formal wear.

YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: 22 Most beautiful places in Andalucia

What to Expect on the Al Andalus

This train journey runs between Málaga and Sevilla. Covering a distance of merely 211 km (130 mi) in 7 days might have you raising your eyebrows. Let me put your mind at ease: The journey is not linear, instead the Al Andalus languorous zigzags through the rolling countryside of Andalucía. This is truly one of Spain’s most captivating rides, so sit back and enjoy this slow journey.

While the plush carriages certainly draw one’s eye – the deep red Art Nouveau-esque dining carts, peacock blue tea carriage or red and yellow flecked piano room feel like stepping on a film set – the gastronomic delights served for lunch and/or dinner truly propel this slow-cruising rail experience to new heights. The onboard chef does masterful things to local produce, whipping up 4-course meals that have guests aching to pick up the bespoke tableware and lick it clean. Fight the urge and simply ask for seconds!

Wanting to ensure their onboard guests come away with a solid knowledge of Andalucía, the train stops frequently for
tailored off-train excursions including a guided visit to the Alhambra (Granada), the Mesquita (Córdoba) and the Plaza de España (Sevilla). Lunch is oftentimes a lengthy affair in one of the gastronomic restaurants handpicked by knowledgeable local guides. Thou shall not go hungry on this trip!

The only downside is the limited amount of time spent aboard the train while it is barreling through the Andalucian countryside. Unlike its more illustrious cousin the Orient Express, the Al Andalus is not permanently in motion. In fact, it only rides a total of 5 times for a few hours each stretch. The rest of the time the train is safely tucked away in a quiet corner of one of the train stations for the city we visit that specific day.

GOOD TO KNOW | Andalucian cuisine is heavy on animal products. If you are a vegetarian or vegan make sure to make this clear when booking your trip!

Al Andalus Itinerary

As the Al Andalus weaves through this evocative part of Spain, it makes various stops along the way. It ticks off the major highlights of the region – Granada, Sevilla, Córdoba- and manages to throw in a sprinkling of lesser-known cities including Baeza and Ronda for a very well-rounded experience.

The aforementioned tailored off-train excursions are encouraged, though of course entirely optional. I tend to run in the opposite direction of guided tours. They tend to invoke images of head-set-wearing guides desperately waving colorful flags in front of a flock of bright-eyed bushy-tailed guests wearing matching T-shirts or, heaven forbid, baseball caps. Thankfully there was none of this nonsense!

The guides we had on this trip were local and exceptionally knowledgeable. I am happy to report that the colorful flags did not make an appearance, not once. A whopping 3-hour tour of the Alhambra turned out to be extraordinarily informative and good fun. Which, for someone who has the attention span of a goldfish (spoiler, it’s me) is nothing short of miraculous.
There is hope for this cultural barbarian yet!

No words can do justice to this glorious experience. As a writer, that puts me in a bit of a pickle! Having hummed and hared over adjectives and superlatives for days on end, I finally decided there are only so many synonyms for “beautiful and exceptional” one can credibly stuff into an article. Below you will find a detailed description of the highlights we visited along the way – sans gushing. More practical information including cost, how to book, etc. can be found further down.

GOOD TO KNOW | Tours are entirely optional, as is disembarking for that matter. The onboard staff will provide you with a schedule for the day, the only fixed appointments are lunch and getting yourself back on the train in time for departure.

DAY ONE – MALAGA

Our journey starts bright and early as we meet in the Hotel AC Málaga Palacio. We saunter up to the hotel and are met with a sea of bright smiles and a flurry of questions “Name, passport number, diëtary restrictions…?”. The check-in for the Al Andalus is nothing if not thorough it would seem. I look around to find a few tentative smiles from my fellow passengers.

Administrative tasks taken care of, we are split into two groups and set off to explore Málaga with our local guide. Explore might be a smidge optimistic, it was more of a speedwalk truth be told. A gentle climb from Old Town leads us through lush gardens and our first glimpse of Moorish Andalucía as we traipse through the Alcazaba.

As time is not on our side our visit is limited to the Alcazaba and a few of the surrounding streets. The magnificent Gibralfaro Castle, perched atop the hill is not in the program alas due to time constraints! If I may be so bold, consider coming a day early to hike up to the castle, poke around the sparkling waterfront, and delve into the blossoming art scene. Trust me, it’s worth the night.

After a copious lunch at the Hotel AC Malaga Palacio we get on the Al Andalus bus and are whisked away to Granada where a garnet red train humms in anticipation of our approach. Bags already handed over to the stewards, we eagerly walk towards the entrance to our little palace where a red carpet has been rolled out. Once aboard my 45 fellow passengers and I collectively gasped. The plush velvet couches, tasseled table lights, and white-gloved waiters handing out flutes of champagne truly exceed my wildest expectations.

We spend a few hours settling into our beautiful surroundings. For some it meant heading to their sleeper cabins to unpack, the bags have magically made it to our cabins by the time we arrive, for me, it is running around like a headless chicken snapping thousands of pictures of every minute detail of this train. Have you seen those lampshades!

MUST SEE IN MALAGA: Alcazaba, Málaga Cathedral, Castillo de Gibralfaro, Málaga Museum
LUNCH: Hotel AC Málaga Palacio || DINNER: Aboard the train

DAY TWO – GRANADA & LINARES/BAEZA

A hand-rung bell heralds a new day of adventures aboard the Al Andalus. After a copious breakfast, we set off in the direction of the Alhambra, a beautifully preserved Moorish palace set against the peaks of the Sierra Nevada.

Our itinerary reads “3.5 hours guided tour” which has me slightly nervous. As briefly touched upon, there is no love lost between yours truly and guided tours. But truthfully, one does not come to Granada and skip visiting the Alhambra. It seems all of my fellow passengers wholeheartedly agree as not one decides to stay behind on the train.

I am happy to report my fears were wholly unfounded. Our wonderful guide had a knack for storytelling, weaving in little tidbits about the history and architecture of the Alhambra and Granada. As we make our way through this astonishing feat of Arabesque stucco work and meticulously landscaped gardens, the true scale of the Moorish reign becomes apparent. The Alhambra is the veritable apogee of 800 years of Moorish rule over parts of Andalucía.

True to the gastronomic nature of this trip, we are rewarded for our good behavior with a languorous 3-hour lunch with panoramic views over the Alhambra. The late afternoon and early evening are blissfully void of organized activities. Many of my fellow travelers opt to catch the bus back to the train and embark on the time-honored Spanish tradition of “Siesta”.

I am brimming with energy, or perhaps riding the sugar high of the dessert, and decide to walk down the cobblestone streets into the heart of ancient Granada for a bit of sightseeing. By evening, the vibe on the train turned more formal – polo shirts made way for linen jackets and sun dresses for cocktail attire as we collectively slink into the ruby red dining carts for our first dinner aboard the train.

MUST SEE IN GRANADA: Alhambra, Catedral de Granada, Albaicin, Royal Chapel of Granada, Mirador San Nicolas
LUNCH: Restaurant Carmen San Miguel || DINNER: Aboard the train

GOOD TO KNOW | The Alhambra is the most visited monument in Spain. It is extraordinarily busy which means you will be shuffling through rooms at a snail’s pace. Bring a pair of comfortable shoes for the excursion!

DAY THREE – ÚBEDA – BAEZA – CORDOBA

The next morning, as I peek out of my tasseled curtains, rubbing the remnants of sleep from my eyes I notice we are no longer in Granada. The train rode through the night to bring us to our next destination, a little town called Baeza in the province of Jaén. Also known as the olive oil-producing region of Spain.

The latter becomes crystal clear as we hop on board the bus for our first visit of the day and endless rolling hills dotted with a sea of olive trees flit by the windows. Baeza is a UNESCO World Heritage site thanks to the many beautifully preserved Renaissance mansions that make up the historical center. Get your camera ready, because this little town is picture-perfect!

A quick guided visit through Baeza is followed by an olive oil tasting across town and speed back towards the train for lunch on board. We dunk our artisanal bread into the delicious oil heralding from the cooperative we visited in Baeza while waiting for our 4-course meal. Meanwhile, the train trundles towards Córdoba. With impeccable timing, the train pulls into the station at Córdoba as I finish the very last morsel on my plate.

As the journey progresses, friendships between passengers have started to form. I find myself bonding with a gregarious pair of Norwegian sisters. With a few hours to spare until our next gastronomic endeavor, we decide to skip the onboard entertainment (a magician no less) in favor of a different type of magic: Explore the millefeuille of history that makes up the historical center of Córdoba. It is my third time in the city and remains one of my favorite places in Andalucía. Sharing it with new friends is the cherry on top of the sundae.

MUST SEE IN BAEZA: Baeza Cathedral, Plaza del Populo
MUST SEE IN CORDOBA: Córdoba Mesquita, Alcazar, Ermita del “Socorro” church, Patios
LUNCH: Aboard the train || DINNER: Restaurant Casa Rubio

GOOD TO KNOW | Between the train arriving in Córdoba and sitting down for dinner you will have a couple of hours of free time. This is the only time available to explore the stunning town of Córdoba, I highly recommend making use of it and foregoing the siesta!

DAY FOUR – CORDOBA – RONDA

Our day starts in the best possible way: A guided visit through the UNESCO World Heritage site that is the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba. The Mezquita was built when Córdoba was the epicentre of Moorish rule. You might have caught some pictures online of the geometric maze of candy cane-colored arches that can be found inside.

As our guide runs us through the history of the mesquite I head deeper into the forest of columns. Light starts to dwindle and I stumble upon an intricately carved mihrab (a niche in the wall of a mosque, at the point nearest to Mecca) fearing I might lose my trusted train companions in the throng of people, I turn and head to the very heart of the Mesquita.

Here lies a gargantuan Gothic cathedral. Placed here by King Ferdinand II upon taking back the lands from the Moors in the 13th century. Guide safely located, my mind starts to wander off thinking about the logistics it took to build this marble structure, without damaging the forest of granite columns. Somebody was mighty motivated to make a statement here!

Although the itinerary says you will get a guided visit to Córdoba, 85% of your time is spent in and around the Mezquita. If you do want to walk the cobblestoned streets and browse the many little boutiques, make sure to do it the day before. Lunch is once again held onboard to the swaying of the train as it hurtles us to Ronda.

Pulling into Ronda we traipse out to visit this little village straddling the Tajo de Ronda Gorge. The city visit to Ronda is a bit quick for my personal liking. I opted to skip visiting the bullfighting ring and instead peel away from the group to spend some time strolling through the little streets and hunting down the famous viewpoint of the bridge (pictured above). Dinner is held in the stunningly situated Parador of Ronda.

MUST SEE IN RONDA: Historical Bridge of Ronda
LUNCH: Aboard the train || DINNER: National Parador of Ronda

PRACTICAL TIP | The beautiful vantage point over the bridge of Ronda can be found by typing in “Mirador Puente Nuevo de Ronda”. As you walk down the gorge, there is one viewpoint along the way which requires you to pay €5. Ignore this tourist scam, and simply continue heading down the path for a free and much better viewpoint

DAY FIVE – RONDA & JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA

In the small hours of the morning, the train jolts to a start embarking on a 6-hour journey from Ronda to Jerez de la Frontera. I wake up to the gentle swaying of the train and glance out my window to find the dusty planes of Andalucia flitting by. Nestling in a little deeper into the comforting embrace of my plush bed, listening to the clickety-clack of the train I soon succumb to sleep once more. When I wake up we are in Jerez de la Frontera.

One copious breakfast later, it’s time to explore Jerez de la Frontera where life is fueled by sherry and tapas! As we walk through the city it seems like every one in four buildings is a bodega. Therefore it’s only befitting that our very first outing is to visit one of these bodegas. By 10.30 am I have downed two sherries and my head is spinning ever so slightly.

After the sherry tasting my fellow train mates head off to the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art for a show. Entertainment including animals is not entirely my cup of tea, even when performed under the banner of cultural heritage. I opt instead to head into Jerez de la Frontera to explore! The Alcazar de Jerez offers spectacular views over the city and a slightly odd pharmacy museum, perfect to pass the time.

Lunch is held in a restaurant with a magnificent view over the sea. This is quite possibly the prettiest setting we have for lunch, although not the tastiest, that is reserved for our very last day! We head back to the train for, you got it, siesta! This time I don’t fight it and instead opt to enjoy luxurious offerings inside the train. Nestling inside my personal oasis that is my cabin, atop the velvet couch, footed in Al Andlus slippers, with a cup of hot tea resting on the wooden table, delving into my Kindle, utterly lost to the world, that is until the announcement of dinner rings across the speakers.

MUST SEE IN JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA: Alcazar de Jerez, Cathedral of Jerez, Iglesia de San Miguel
LUNCH: Restaurant Casa Bigote || DINNER: Aboard the train

DAY SIX – JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA & CADIZ

On our penultimate day we head to the small peninsula in the south-west of Andalucía, to the town of Cádiz. This little coastal town has some of the best beaches in Andalucía and is filled with weather-beaten palaces. We have a breezy guided visit after which we are rewarded with one hour of free time to explore!

Whenever I get to a new place I like to find a place with a view. The best can be found from the top of the Cathedral, a gently sloping path inside the tower leads you to a viewing platform high above the city. The sky is an ominous color of gray, heralding in a rainstorm that will hit soon. Ignoring the skies we make our way to viewpoint number two: Torre Tavira, incidentally the best spot to see the neoclassical façade and golden dome of the aforementioned Cathedral in all its splendor.

As one of Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited cities, Cádiz has a lot of stories to tell. The best way to uncover some of these closely guarded stories is by meandering through the maze of little streets around the cathedral, sitting down at a taberna and ordering a dish of the local specialty: fried fish. These stories will have to wait for a future visit however as our garnet red chariot awaits!

After lunch we head back to the train where it is time to start packing our bags as tomorrow morning we will be saying goodbye to our little slice of heaven. Luckily a delicious dinner and a fun goodbye party await to take the sting out of our impending departure.

MUST SEE IN CADIZ: Catedral de la Santa Cruz de Cádiz, Torre Tavira, La Caleta beach, Plaza de San Juan de Dios
LUNCH: Restaurant Em Faro de El Puerto || DINNER: Aboard the train

DAY SEVEN – SEVILLA

For our last morning, we wake to the train gently meandering from Jerez de la Frontera to Sevilla. Swaying down the corridor we collectively gather in the dining cart for one last breakfast. While I reach to take my first sip of coffee, we pull into the station of Sevilla. As the train hisses to a halt, the realization hits hard of our impending departure.

Luckily the excitement over visiting Sevilla, one of my all-time favorite cities in Europe, softens the blow ever so slightly. We are whisked away to the lavish Plaza de España for a cursory visit. For first-time visitors to this part of Spain, I can only recommend coming back later to explore this exquisite square filled with horse-drawn carriages trotting along and boats gliding under tile-clad bridges.

The blitz visit is followed by a passionate flamenco show at Casa de la Memoria, which doubles up as a little museum delving into the history of this beautiful traditional music and dance style. The show is geared toward the uninitiated tourist yet that does not seem to stop the zeal with which the artists show up. As always after seeing Flamenco, I leave feeling ever so slightly off-kilter.

Luckily the feeling is fleeting as we start weaving our way through the throngs of tourists to visit the star attraction of the city: Alcazar of Sévilla. This “little” palace truly contains multitudes starting its journey as the home for the Moorish caliph of Córdoba and ending up as one of the most important Renaissance pales in Europe. I could spend all day marveling at the intricate Arabesque stucco work and colorful tile decorations.

Lunch is served in the prettiest Hotel Alabardero and it is the best meal we had on the entire trip, aside from the train! This is our last stop on the trip so after lunch it is time for heartfelt goodbyes and to pick up our luggage. If you are planning on spending a few extra days in Sevilla, it is worth checking out the prices of the hotel and simply booking your stay here. It will mean a lot less lugging around cobblestoned streets with your luggage!

MUST SEE IN SEVILLA: Plaza de España, Royal Alcazar de Sevilla, Catedral de Sevilla, Setas de Sevilla, Palacio de las Dueñas, Casa de Pilatos
LUNCH: Taberna del Alabardero || Dinner: Not included

GOOD TO KNOW | Accommodation for day seven is not included in the train itinerary. The program ends around 05.00 pm, consider booking at least one or two night in Sevilla to give yourself ample time to soak in the beauty of the city.

Onboard Amenities and Services

Sleeping Cabins Aboard the Al Andalus

The Al Andalus can sleep 60 guests spread out across 32 suites in 7 sleeper carriages. The train has two different types of rooms: The Grand Class Room ( twin beds) and the Deluxe Suite Room (one double bed). Both rooms have an en-suite bathroom and ample storage space for your luggage.

DELUXE SUITES: The images below are of the deluxe suite. These rooms are slightly larger and they have an additional closet to store your clothing.

WAKE-UP CALL: Each morning we are awakened by the sound of a school bell, vigorously being swung by a member of the crew diligently walking the full length of the Al Andalus.

TURN-DOWN SERVICE: As we tuck into dinner, the staff makes their rounds and ensures our rooms are ready for us to slide into bed. The curtains are closed, the AC is turned on (or off) and a handful of complimentary chocolates magically appear on our pillows.

ADDITIONAL AMENITIES: Safe, minibar with complimentary (soft) drinks and water, air conditioning, slippers, telephone with an outdoor line. Wi-Fi reaches the rooms, although it is spotty when the train is moving.

En-suite bathrooms on the train

The private bathroom has a hydromassage shower/steam sauna, a hairdryer, a complete toiletry kit, and a bathrobe. Towels are refreshed daily.

GOOD TO KNOW | to ensure maximum comfort the beds in the cabins are turned into a sofa during the day (see image above). This ensures you have ample room to walk around your cabin. The staff will then simply transform your sofa into a bed during turn-down service.

Onboard Meals and Drinks

Breakfast and dinner are always served on the train (aside from the dinner in Cordoba and Ronda). The culinary team works with local suppliers and providers to source ingredients from the diverse environments the train travels through. In practice, this means there is always something new to try!

Meals are served in one of the three luxurious dining cars. Although no specific dress code is applicable, guests tend to adhere to business casual. The last evening guests are requested to don their finest attire for a goodbye party held in the bar car.

BREAKFAST | Breakfast is usually served between 08.00 am and 09.30 am, although this depends on the daily schedule. Aside from a buffet, various dishes are available à la carte (eggs, breadbasket, …).

DINNER | Many of the dinners are served on the train, and frankly, these were some of my favorite meals. The extraordinarily talented chef managed to transform the regional specialties into beautifully crafted dishes. Be wary of the selection of freshly baked breads, they are so good it is tempting to fill up on bread before your 4-course meal has even started. Trust me on this one! I speak from experience.

DRINKS | Dinner is paired with a great selection of local wines and digestifs, ensuring the experience is to be enjoyed leisurely and at length. All drinks served during the meal are complimentary. Drinks served outside of mealtime are not included.

FOOD ALLERGIES | Make sure to mention any dietary restrictions or food allergies before booking. I am a vegetarian and was served different dishes throughout the journey.

Practical Information For Travelers

DAILY ITINERARIES: After dinner, a member of the crew will provide you with a daily itinerary detailing exactly what activities are planned and what clothes to pack with you for the excursions.

WHERE DO YOU SLEEP AT NIGHT: You sleep on the train in your private cabin. As previously stated, the train does not ride through the night. It usually stops right after dinner is finished and does not leave again until the next morning. It pulls into various train stations along the way, make sure to bring earplugs as some of these can be pretty noisy.

LANGUAGE SPOKEN ON THE TRAIN: The staff onboard speaks a variety of different languages including French, Spanish, German, and English. Announcements are made in English, German, and Spanish.

EXCURSIONS: Excursions are voluntary e.g. there is no obligation to join. The only true obligation is to make sure you meet up at the pre-arranged time & location. At the beginning of the trip, you are provided with a headset, through which the local guides provide information during the excursions.

PETS: Pets are not allowed aboard the al Andalus.

SUSTAINABILITY: The Al Andalus does have a few kinks to work out to live up to her full, sustainable, potential. The use of plastic bottles versus glass bottles, and a more versatile offering for vegetarians at lunchtime are a great starting point.

Price of the Al Andalus and Bookings

There is no denying the Al Andalus is a luxury train and this is clearly reflected in the price point. Prices for a single Grand Class Cabin start at € 9,500 (US$ 10,200) while a single Deluxe Suite will set you back € 11,700 (US$ 12,650).

WHAT IS INCLUDED | This price includes full-board (e.g. three meals a day), excursions with a local guide, complimentary toilet kit, and entrance fees to all museums and activities. It also includes free regular Renfe train tickets to the starting point of the trip and back from the end point of the trip.

BOOKING | Tickets can be booked directly on the Al Andalus website.

Is the Al Andalus Worth It?

If you are looking for a truly unique way to see Andalucía, away from the crowds and in relative luxury then a journey with the Al Andalus is the way to go. This once-in-a-lifetime experience is the perfect journey for travelers who love slow, intentional travel and love spending ample time savoring the culinary highlights of the places they visit. But, there is no beating about the bush, the experience does come at a rather lofty price point.

MORE TRAVEL RESOURCES FOR VISITING SPAIN AND SURROUNDINGS

SPAIN: 4 days in northern Tenerife
SPAIN: 12 Unmissable things to do in Asturias
SPAIN: A journey on the Costa Verde Express
SPAIN: 22 Most beautiful places in Andalucia
EUROPE: 20 Most scenic train rides in Europe
PORTUGAL: Roadtrip through unknown Central Portugal
ITALY: Northern Italy one to two-week itinerary

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